Getting Around

If you're flying to The Bahamas and your final destination is Nassau (Cable Beach), Paradise Island, or Freeport/Lucaya, you'll have little trouble reaching your destination. However, if you're heading for one of the Out Islands, you face more exotic choices, not only of airplanes, but also of other means of transport, including a mail boat, the traditional connecting link in days of yore.

Each section on the Out Island chains has specific transportation information, but here's a general overview.

By Plane

The national airline of The Bahamas, Bahamasair (tel. 800/222-4262; www.bahamasair.com), serves 19 airports on 12 Bahamian islands, including Abaco, Andros, Cat Island, Eleuthera, Long Island, and San Salvador. Many of the Out Islands have either airports or airstrips, or are within a short ferry ride's distance of one. You can usually make connections to these smaller islands from Nassau.

By Rental Car

Many travelers don't really need to rent a car in The Bahamas, especially those who are coming for a few days of soaking in the sun at their resort's own beach. In Nassau and Freeport, you can easily rely on public transportation or taxis. In some of the Out Islands, there are a few car-rental companies, but most of their cars are unusually expensive and in poor condition (the roads are often in the same bad state as the rental cars).

Most visitors need transportation only from the airport to their hotel; island tours can be arranged later, and an expensive private car won't always be necessary. Your hotel can readily arrange for taxi service if you want to venture out.

That said, you may decide that you want a car to explore beyond the tourist areas of New Providence Island, and you're very likely to want one on Grand Bahama Island.

Just remember: Road rules are much the same as those in the U.S., but you drive on the left.

For the Out Islands, determine if you'll want a car (for instance, you may want one to explore Eleuthera or Great Abaco Island). Perhaps you'll stay put at your resort but rent a car for only a day or two of exploring.

The major U.S. car-rental companies operate in The Bahamas, but not on all the remote islands. We always prefer to do business with one of the major firms if they're present because you can call ahead and reserve from home via a toll-free number, they tend to offer better-maintained vehicles, and it's easier to resolve any disputes after the fact. Options include Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000; www.dollar.com), or Hertz (tel. 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com). Budget rents in Nassau and Paradise Island. Liability insurance is compulsory.

"Petrol" is easily available in Nassau and Freeport, though quite expensive. In the Out Islands, where the cost of gasoline is likely to vary from island to island, you should plan your itinerary based on where you'll be able to get fuel. The major towns of the islands have service stations. You should have no problems on New Providence Island or Grand Bahama Island unless you start out with a nearly empty tank.

Visitors may drive with their home driver's license for up to 3 months. For longer stays, you'll need to secure a Bahamian driver's license.

By Taxi

Once you've reached your destination, you'll find that taxis are plentiful in the Nassau/Cable Beach/Paradise Island area and in the Freeport/Lucaya area on Grand Bahama Island. These cabs, for the most part, are metered -- but they take cash only, no credit cards.

In the Out Islands, however, it's not so easy. In general, taxi service is available at all air terminals, at least if those air terminals have "port of entry" status. They can also be hailed at most marinas.

Taxis are usually shared, often with the local residents. Out Island taxis aren't metered, so you must negotiate the fare before you get in. (Expect to pay a rate of around US$20 per hour.) Cars are often old and badly maintained, so be prepared for a bumpy ride over some rough roads if you've selected a particularly remote hotel.

By Mail Boat

Before the advent of better airline connections, the traditional way of exploring the Out Islands -- in fact, about the only way unless you had your own vessel -- was by mail boat. This service is still available, but it's recommended only for those who have lots of time and a sense of adventure. You may ride with cases of rum, oil drums, live chickens, or even an occasional piano.

The boats -- 19 of them comprising the "Post Office Navy," under the direction of the Bahamian Chief of Transportation -- are often fancifully colored, high-sided, and somewhat clumsy in appearance, but the little motor vessels chug along, serving the 30 inhabited islands of The Bahamas. Schedules can be thrown off by bad weather and other causes, but most mornings the mail boats depart from Potter's Cay (under the Paradise Island Bridge in Nassau) or from Prince George Wharf. The voyages last from 4 1/2 hours to most of a day, sometimes even overnight. Check the schedule of the particular boat you wish to travel on with the skipper at the dock in Nassau.

Mail boats are a cheap way to go: The typical fare from Nassau to Marsh Harbour is US$55 per person one-way. Many of the boats offer two classes of passenger accommodations, first and second. In first class, you get a bunk bed; in second, you may be entitled only to deck space. (Actually, the bunk beds are usually reserved for the seasick, but first-class passengers on larger boats sit in a reasonably comfortable enclosed cabin.)

For information about mail boats to the Out Islands, contact the Dock Master's Office in Nassau, under the Paradise Island Bridge on Potter's Cay (tel. 242/393-1064).

Slow Boat to the Out Islands -- Delivering goats, chickens, hardware, and food staples along with the mail, Bahamian mail boats greatly improve the quality of life for the scattered communities of the Out Islands. You can book passage aboard these vessels to at least 17 different remote islands. All 30 boats leave from Nassau, and the round-trip takes a full day or more. For additional information, consult your local Bahamas Tourist Office or the dock master at Nassau's Potter's Cay (tel. 242/393-1064 or 242/326-9781).

By Chartered Boat

For those who can afford it, this is the most luxurious way to see The Bahamas. On your private boat, you can island-hop at your convenience. Well-equipped marinas are on every major island and many cays. There are designated ports of entry at Great Abaco (Marsh Harbour), Andros, the Berry Islands, Bimini, Cat Cay, Eleuthera, Grand Bahama (Freeport/Lucaya), Great Exuma, Great Inagua, New Providence (Nassau), Ragged Island, and San Salvador.

Vessels must check with Customs at the first port of entry and receive a cruising clearance permit to The Bahamas. Carry it with you and return it at the official port of departure.

Yachtsman's Guide to The Bahamas (Tropical Island Publishers) covers the entire Bahamas and is revised every year. Copies are available at major marine outlets and bookstores, or by mail direct from the publisher for US$45, plus postage: Tropical Island Publishers, P.O. Box 12, Adelphia, NJ 07710 (tel. 877/923-9653; www.yachtsmansguide.com).

Experienced sailors with a sea-wise crew can charter "bareboat" (a fully equipped boat with no crew). You're on your own, and you'll have to prove you can handle it before you're allowed to take out such a craft. You may want to take along an experienced yachter familiar with local waters, which may be tricky in some places.

Most yachts are rented on a weekly basis. Contact the Moorings (tel. 888/952-8420 or 727/535-1446; www.moorings.com) for information.