Built around a sweet-looking mission church, Cerocahui consists of little more than rambling unpaved streets and 100 or so houses. It enjoys a wonderful view of the mountains, but you have to take an excursion to get real canyon vistas. All hotels can arrange horseback rides to nearby waterfalls and other scenic spots, as well as trips to Cerro Gallego, a famous lookout point with a beautiful vista of Urique Canyon. It's possible to see the waterfall on arrival, schedule the Gallego trip for the next morning, have lunch, and still make the train. I like the quiet of Cerocahui, however, and recommend staying here as long as you can, provided you like hiking or horseback riding. There are a number of secluded places, both near and far, to visit. One possible trip is a hike down to the mining town of Urique at the bottom of the Urique Canyon (one of several canyons that make up the Copper Canyon), and then a car ride back up. There are a few simple but comfortable hotels where you can stay for between $30 and $40 (£15-£20) a night. The nicest is Hotel Barrancas Urique (tel. 635/456-6076). It can provide you with a guide if you feel like doing some more hiking. The rooms come with fans, but the hotel might install air-conditioning units in a couple of the rooms.
