Tiny Bali has great topographical variety. Located in the center of Indonesia's vast archipelago, the island has an area of 5,620 sq. km (roughly 2,192 sq. miles), only the size of a large metropolis. The land is divided in half east to west by a volcanic mountain chain and is scored lengthwise by deep river gorges. White-sand beaches line the coast to the east, as well as near Kuta in the most populated area of wider lowlands to the south. Dotting the island are active volcanoes, including Gunung Agung, a dynamic peak and a power point of Balinese culture and belief. Central Ubud is one of the more beautiful spots, with mountainous scenery, lush vegetation, and Bali's famed terraced rice farms. The far west is the least developed area of the island, with mountainous terrain mostly given over to national park land.
Today -- Tourism had been rebounding significantly from the October 2002 bombings (which killed 202 people) when terrorists once again struck in October 2005. The second attack was smaller, killing 20, but the use of suicide bombers in two highly touristed areas (Kuta and Jimbaran Bay) made it just as frightening. Even so, tourists, recognizing that terrorism is a modern-day problem on most of the planet, have once again begun returning to Bali. Huge foreign investments in new luxury hotels -- like the Bulgari, where rooms start at US$1,000 (£550) per night -- indicate that many see a hopeful future for Balinese tourism. An increase in guards, bomb-sniffing dogs, and regular vehicle checks nearly everywhere in Bali also shows that the tourism industry and the government are taking security seriously. Ironically, the areas hardest hit by the drop in tourists are the more far-flung, remote parts of Bali where terrorists are least likely to strike. Rather than skipping out on one of the world's best beach holidays, travelers can alleviate their terrorism concerns by visiting Bali's more remote destinations, asking their hotels what security measures are in place, and staying alert when visiting crowded areas.
As with any undiscovered paradise that isn't so undiscovered anymore, Bali buffs mourn the loss of the island's innocence. You're sure to meet one or two scruffy old expats who'll be more than happy to tell you about "how it once was" on the island. Where there were no hotels or even electricity only a few decades ago, the island is now spotted with cybercafes, upscale lodging, and pesky touts. Don't be dissuaded. The "real Bali" is wherever you look for it.
