Regions in Brief

Banff Town Site

Few towns in the world boast as beautiful a setting as Banff. The mighty Bow River courses right through town, while massive mountain blocks rear up on Banff's outskirts. Mount Rundle, a finlike mountain that somehow got tipped over on its side, parades off to the south. Mount Cascade rises up immediately north of downtown.

This is a stunning, totally unlikely place for a town, and Banff has been trading on its beauty for more than a century. The Fairmont Banff Springs hotel was built in 1888 as a destination resort by the Canadian Pacific Railroad. As outdoor-recreation enthusiasts began to frequent the area, the little town of Banff grew up to service their needs.

While the setting hasn't changed since the early days of the park, the town certainly has. Today, the streets of Banff are lined with exclusive boutiques; trendy cafes spill out onto the sidewalks; and bus after bus filled with tourists choke the streets. There's a vital and cosmopolitan feel to the town; just don't come here expecting a bucolic alpine village -- Banff in summer is a very busy place.

Lake Louise

Deep-green Lake Louise, 56km (35 miles) northwest of Banff and surrounded by snowcapped mountains, is one of the most famed beauty spots in a park renowned for its scenery. Lake Louise, in the valley below, boasts the largest ski area in Canada and easy hiking access to the remote high country along the Continental Divide.

The lake and the skiing may be spectacular, but probably as many people wind up the road to Lake Louise to see its most famous resort, the Chateau Lake Louise. Built by the Canadian Pacific Railroad, the Chateau is, along with the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel, one of the most celebrated hotels in Canada.

The reason Lake Louise looks so green is that sunlight refracts off minerals in the glacial runoff, creating vivid colors. You'll want to at least stroll around the shore and gawk at the glaciers and the massive Chateau. The gentle Lakeshore Trail follows the northern shore to the end of Lake Louise. For more exercise and even better views, continue on the trail as it begins to climb. Now called the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail, it passes a teahouse 5km (3 miles) from the Chateau, and is open in summer only, on its way to a tremendous viewpoint over Victoria Glacier and Lake Louise.

Seeing the Sights -- The Lake Louise Summer Sightseeing Lift (tel. 403/522-3555) offers a 14-minute ride up to 2,088 m (6,850 ft.) on Mt. Whitehorn, midway up the Lake Louise Ski Area. From here, the views of Lake Louise and the mountains along the Continental Divide are magnificent. Hikers can follow one of many trails into alpine meadows, visit the Wildlife Interpretation Centre, or join a free naturalist-led walk to explore the delicate ecosystem. The round-trip costs C$22 (US$18) for adults, C$20 (US$16) for seniors and students, and C$12 (US$9.20) for children ages 6 to 15. The lift operates from mid-May to mid-September. At the base, the Lodge of Ten Peaks offers buffet dining: ride-and-dine packages are available.

To many visitors, Moraine Lake is even more beautiful than Lake Louise, its more famous twin. Ten spirelike peaks, each over 3,000m (10,000 ft.) high, rise precipitously from the shores of this tiny gem-blue lake. It's an unforgettable sight, and definitely worth the short 13km (8-mile) drive from Lake Louise. A trail follows the lake's north shore to the mountain cliffs. There's a lodge offering meals. If the panorama looks familiar, you may recognize it from the back of a Canadian $20 bill.