Hotels

The city boasts some of the world's most lauded hotels. But it's not just about five-star properties; lodgings in the Big Mango come in all prices and offer charming service -- all at a fraction of what you'd pay in Europe or the U.S.

Bangkok offers fantastic value for money, but remember that the hotel prices listed here are, on the whole, the highest published rates. Wherever hotels don't have published rates, I've used those from the Internet and, when there are numerous room types and rates, only a selection may be given. Many hotels offer promotional packages that include extras such as breakfast or airport transfers; some airlines also offer great deals on hotels. Unless otherwise noted, hotel rates are subject to a 7% government value-added tax and 10% service charge. In the high season (mid-Oct to mid-April), make reservations well in advance.

Note: Hotel websites and Internet sites such as www.asiahotels.com often offer special rates for four- and five-star hotels in Bangkok.

At the Airports

Hotels at the renamed Don Mueang and new Suvarnabhumi International airports are useful if you have a very early morning flight and don't want to allow the 45 to 90 minutes' traveling time from the city. Amari Don Mueang Airport Hotel (tel. 02566-1020; www.amari.com) is linked by a bridge to the terminal and comes with a pool. Expect standard rooms from 2,975B (US$85/£46). Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport is a few minutes' drive away and offers four restaurants, plus a business center, Wi-Fi, and fitness facilities. Rates run from 5,000B (US$143/£77) per room (tel. 02131-1111; www.novotel.com).

On the River

During the dry season, the riverside is one of the most picturesque parts of the city. A whole range of riverside hotels exists, and all boast great views and most operate free shuttle boats along the teeming Chao Phraya River, which makes them handy for shoppers, diners, spa-goers, and anyone needing the BTS. The finest don't come cheap, but since 2006 plenty of new and reasonable midrange choices have opened.

Sathorn, Silom & Surawong

If Bangkok were to have one single business district (it actually has many), this would be it. The area between Surawong (also written Surawongse) and Silom roads contains the city's oldest shopping and tourist haunts -- including the former G.I. haunt and today's red-light district, Patpong. Parallel to them is the busy eight-lane Sathorn Road, off which you'll find the city's bigger embassies, top hotels, police, and immigration HQs. Some hotels in sois off Sathorn (such as The Tivoli) even offer a shuttle to the Sala Daeng BTS. The one problem with this area is that it snarls up with static traffic from 5:45pm to 8pm daily, but the Lumphini MRT stop at the top of Sathorn Road helps avoid the gridlock.

Sukhumvit Road Area

Accessed along its entire length by the convenient BTS, Sukhumvit Road is the heart of commercial Bangkok. Here you'll find many of the town's finest large shopping complexes and restaurants, as well as busy street-side shopping and dining stalls. Many businesses line this endless thoroughfare, and the small lanes or sois are crammed with bars and clubs -- not all of them tacky hooker joints. Tourists as well as business travelers will find this the most convenient location to stay in town, with many comfortable hotel options. There are a few good budget choices (which are much better than busy and inconvenient Khao San Rd.), and direct access to the BTS means you can get anywhere you need to go in town at any time of day -- which is a bonus when gridlock strikes.

Note: Siam (pronounced see-yam) BTS lies at the heart of the Rajadaprasong shopping area. Covered walkways link it to a number of Bangkok's larger and swankier malls, but sadly there are few elevators for wheelchairs or baby strollers.

Banglampoo & Khao San Road

This now fast-gentrifying area still caters to a core clientele of budget backpackers, aging hippies, and drug-addled dropouts -- which makes for noisy nighttimes in the cheaper guesthouses. It is slowly trying to court more midrange customers, though. Cheap eats and funky fashions abound here; so do thieves: Secure your room and valuables well. Most of the major tourist sights are located a 20-minute walk away in Dusit or Sanam Luang, so sightseeing on foot is possible, if you can take the heat. It's a pleasant boat ride to Saphan Taksin BTS, though a long way to Sukhumvit's bars and shops.

Inexpensive -- There are budget places from as low as 250B (US$7/£3.85) in and around Khao San, including the Viengtai Hotel (42 Rambutri Rd., Banglampoo; tel. 02280-5434-45; www.viengtaikhaosan.com), a rather spartan, battered enclave, but with clean rooms, a pool, and good prices -- just 1,400B to 3,000B (US$40-US$86/£22-£46) a night.

Chinatown

Yaowarat (Chinatown) is a cramped, pungent trip back in time, riddled with traffic jams and chaotic at best. But it's also one of the most fascinating mercantile districts of Old Bangkok, with great eats, sights, and color.