Shopping

Antiques

Buying antiques to take out of Thailand is tricky. Authentic antiques are more than 200 years old (they must date from the beginning of the Chakri dynasty in Bangkok), but these days most items are good reproductions that have been professionally "distressed" -- even the Certificate of Authenticity can be a forgery. If you do find something real, remember that the Thai government has an interest in keeping authentic antiquities and sacred items in the country, and will require special permission for export.

By law, Buddha images are prohibited from export, except for religious or educational purposes, and even in these instances, you'll still have to obtain permission from the Department of Fine Arts to remove them from Thailand. This rule is little enforced, though, and the focus is more on antique Buddhas than those you'll find in tourist markets.

Almost all the reputable antiques stores in Bangkok are along the endless Charoen Krung (New) Road (centered along the section either side of the post office), but many of these are shamelessly priced for wealthier tourists. Most items are Chinese, not Thai. River City, just off this road, is another place where high-end shoppers go. Neither quality nor authenticity is guaranteed there, but it's certainly convenient -- you can hit several stores within an hour.

Department Stores & Shopping Plazas

Bangkok's downtown looks more and more like urban Tokyo these days. The size and opulence of Bangkok's many malls and shopping areas are often a shock to those who imagine Bangkok to be an exotic, impoverished destination. Sipping cappuccino at a Starbucks overlooking a busy city street may not be what you've come to Asia to find, but to many it is a comfort (especially after long trips in more rugged parts of the kingdom). The truth is, malls are as much about today's consumer-obsessed Thai youth as anywhere you'll visit; these hallowed halls of materialism are (sadly) much closer to the pulse of the nation than the many temples foreign visitors are keen to experience. Malls are where most wealthy Thais hang out, meet friends, dine, and shop. Below are some more highlights (unless otherwise stated, these places open daily at 10am):

• Central World (tel. 02635-1111), on the corner of Rama I and Rachadamri roads, has been recently revamped and is now a great place to buy slightly funkier upmarket brands and cool gadgets, as well as to visit some of the city's slickest Internet cafes. It contains Zen and Isetan stores and is crowned with a fab food hall, and, of course, a bevy of cinemas. Closes 9pm. The Chit Lom and Siam BTS are both nearby.

• Emporium (tel. 02664-8000) stands proudly on the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 24. Bangkok's first luxury shopping mall, this old-timer still offers the top designer outlets from Gucci to Prada and Sony to Walt Disney (there are cinemas on the top floor). The food court on the top floor covers just about any craving. Closes 10pm. The closest BTS is Phrom Phong.

• Erawan (next to Grand Hyatt Erawan, at the corner of Ratchadamri and Rama I roads; tel. 02650-7777) is a swanky, mercantile mecca that's truly glamorous but never crowded. Brands such as Coach rub shoulders with fashion stores such as Club 21 and the city's top watch shops. Drop in on Urban Kitchen, its basement area featuring a range of foodie shops and diners. The top floor is dedicated to an alternative health center, offering treatments such as colonic irrigation. Closes 10pm. Take the Chit Lom BTS here.

• Mah Boon Krong, or MBK (tel. 02217-9111), lies at the intersection of Rama 1 and Phayathai. This massive mega-mall is in fact a mass of small shops, fast food joints, and tiny vendors. The Tokyu Department Store is within the mall, and it attracts teeny-boppers and tourists due to its bargain-priced local fashions, accessories, and gadgets, along with its huge array of tourist souvenirs on the lower floor. Cinemas are at the top. Open daily 9am to 9pm. Take the BTS to the National Stadium.

• Panthip Plaza, (tel] 02254-9797) on Petchaburi Road, is an older, rather scruffy mall that's dedicated to all things electronic. Among the shoddy bootleg software, there are stacks of innovative gadgets, as well as shops selling secondhand or new and affordable computers, mobile phones, or components for either. Not much English is spoken, but it may not matter if you are into IT and can speak fluent Nerdish. Closes 8pm. It's a 15-minute walk from the Ploen Chit BTS.

• Siam Paragon (tel. 02658-3000) on Rama 1 Road is one of those glitzy malls that just goes on and on. Downstairs is Siam Ocean World, where kids can watch the sharks swim; above are floors of brand-name stores such as Hermes, MNG, Zara, and Shanghai Tang. The mall also has a whole floor of fun eateries, as well as a top-class food hall, a department store, and even a gymnasium. Closes 10pm. There's easy access via Siam BTS.

Fashion & Tailoring

Bangkok has some small, independent designers of its own creating Thai-influenced fashions that look good back home. Nagara, Kloset, Fly Now, Grey by Greyhound, and Anurak are all well-established local labels producing great ready-to-wear for men and women. It's certainly not Parisian haute couture, but the designs are fresh and original, and prices will be a fraction of those in designer boutiques back home. If you want really unique clothes or accessories, have a trawl around Siam Square for the latest Thai styles -- but don't expect European sizes!

If you want to check out the more cutting-edge, contemporary Thai design scene, Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55; no phone) has a great array of yuppified boutiques catering for the younger, well-heeled Thais. Big boutiques such as the hip fashion and lifestyle center, Playground, and the yummy Greyhound Cafe also attract Thailand's yuppies on weekends.

Tailors may be widespread in popular malls such as River City and in Sukhumvit Road's Soi 11 and 19. Remember, this is not Hong Kong and -- as all the concierges of major hotels repeatedly attest -- Thailand's backstreet tailors aren't perfect. Men's shirts normally pose no serious problems, but ambitious ladies' wear can be a disaster when designs skills are limited and fabric quality is poor. Paying a knock-down price often leads to shoddy workmanship and cloth; don't risk the roughly 3,500B (US$100/#54) you'll have to pay when it all goes wrong. The rule of thumb is, expect to pay 60% of prices in Europe or the U.S. for something decent, and always schedule at least two fittings with an English speaker present. Only very few places, such as World Group (tel. 02238-3344) in Soi Oriental (off Charoen Krung Rd.), can cope with precise cutting or copying of garments. You will pay a high price for their expertise, though -- around 30,000B (US$857/#451).

Gifts, Crafts & Souvenirs

Street vendors throughout the city are a good source of affordable and fun souvenirs. The best stalls are along Sukhumvit Road beginning at Soi 4, and on Khao San Road. Little of the stuff sold there is unique, but the prices are great and many people stock up for gifts such as mango wood bowls, chopsticks, candles, incense, or small decorative lamps made of mulberry paper or coconut shells. Impressive brass, bronze, and pewter items, as well as fine celadon (green ceramic ware), are all available in many outlets on Sukhumvit and Charoen Krung (New) Roads. Look out too, for the OTOP label, designating quality crafts that have been made in rural villages for export.

Head to the OTOP crafts floor in the Silom Galleria (tel. 02630-0944) mall on Soi 19, next to the Holiday Inn Hotel. Up on Sukhumvit Road, the Emporium boasts a dazzling range of beautiful crafts and textiles on its penultimate floor. Mah Boon Krang (MBK) has a lower ground floor stuffed with very reasonably priced gifts and handicrafts, carvings, and castings. The North Thailand-based charity, Mae Fah Luang, has a boutique in Siam Discovery on Rama I Road (tel. 02658-1000) selling upmarket textiles, wood, and ceramic designs. If you are already on your way home, fear not -- it also has duty-free boutiques located at Suvarnabhumi International Airport and a few of the larger provincial airports, such as Chiang Mai's.

Jewelry

Sapphires, rubies, garnets, turquoise, and zircons are mined in Thailand, and nearly every other stone you can think of is imported and cut here. Thai artisans are among the most skillful in the world; work in gold and silver is generally of high quality at very good value. If you're interested in a custom setting, bring a photo or drawing of what you'd like and prepare to discuss your ideas at length.

You'll find gemstone, silver, and gold stores in every part of town. Around Charoen Krung (New) Road, you'll find the wholesalers of gorgeous semi-precious stones. Gold is sold in Chinatown; try the lower end of Silom and Khao San roads for silver in bulk. The Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences (11th floor, Jewelry Trade Center; 919/1 Silom Rd.; tel. 02267-4315) is useful for verifying the quality of cut stones (although it's not an appraiser). The TAT and the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association have created an organization called the Jewel Fest Club. Ask the TAT which shops are members of this reputable organization.

Market Goods

Visiting Bangkok's many markets is as cultural as it is a consumer experience; goods come in from all corners of the kingdom, and bargaining is a fast and furious experience. Smaller markets with fewer tourists are great for wandering. Try these: Bangrak Wet Market, behind the Shangri-La Hotel, is an early morning gourmet's delight. Pratunam Market, at the intersection of Phetchaburi and Ratchaprarop roads, is a big wholesale center, with a vast array of inexpensive clothing. Pak Klong Talad, near Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge), on the fringes of Chinatown, is home to Bangkok's cut-flower market, with huge bouquets of cut flowers passing through here all day and all night.

A word of warning: Cheap goods flood many markets in Thailand and Bangkok is no exception. Most market stalls, such as those in Patpong, are filled with stalls of brand-name handbags, sneakers, and watches, all of which are fake. Though some tourists revel in getting a cheap brand-name items for a few bucks, doing so can result in dire consequences.

Silk

There are numerous silk outlets throughout the city, from shopping malls to the lobbies of international hotels. Synthetics are frequently sold as silk; if you're in doubt about a particular piece, select a thread and burn it -- silk should smell like singed hair. Sometimes only the warp (lengthwise threads) is synthetic, because it is more uniform and easier to work with. For some of the city's priciest silk, try outlets like Jim Thompson's (9 Surawong Rd., near Silom; tel. 02632-8100), or the Thai silk specialists Almeta (20/3, Sukhumvit Soi 23; tel. 02204-1413 or 02258-4227). They can even offer "silk a la carte," whereby silk is woven to the customer's desired weight and dyed to a particular shade. Products include silk wall coverings, silk fashions, bed linen, and casual wear.

For the best cottons from all over the world, as well as chiffons and silks, head to The Cynosure (tel. 02255-5800-3) on Sukhumvit Soi 19, where you will enter an Aladdin's cave of ornate brocades, linens, and rainbow-hued satins, as well as top-class Chantilly laces, along with sequined and beaded fabrics. Expect to pay top price for what is in effect, the cream of the crop.