Mei Jiang

In the plush lower level of the Peninsula lies a Chinese restaurant that serves fresh, unfussy Cantonese dim sum and superbly authentic regional specialties from the Chinese provinces of Guangzhou, Fujian, and Sichuan, not forgetting Northern classics, such as the succulent Beijing Duck, eaten with warm pancakes, sweet plum sauce, cucumber, and shallots. Elegantly simple Chinese decor that doesn't overwhelm and delightful private rooms give it an edge over the city's other -- more showy -- Chinese restaurants. As the dim sum selection attests, this place is all about quality. Reasonably priced set lunches (with dim sum) or set dinners make light work of a head-spinningly broad menu that includes (more extravagantly priced) Chinese delicacies such as lobster, Australian abalone, and sharks' fin. Don't overlook desserts such as chilled sago pudding, black sesame ice cream, or the wonderfully warming sesame paste dumplings in a spicy ginger tea.

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