Spectator Sports

Gongren Tiyuchang (Workers' Stadium) is the home of the capital's football (soccer) team, formerly known as Beijing Guo An, now called Beijing Xiandai (named for the Hyundai car company). A fanatical green-and-white army of fans follows the team, which perennially wallows in mid-table mediocrity, well behind the Chelsea of the Chinese league, Dalian. Referees are usually corrupt, and worth two goals to Beijing, but fans still shower them with invective you won't find in any language textbook. Tickets can be purchased at the Workers' Stadium north gate, Lisheng Tiyu Shangsha, Wangfujing Dajie 74A (tel. 010/6525-0581; daily 9am-8:30pm), or ClubFootball. The season runs from April through November.