What's New

A better question might be, what isn't new in Beijing? From new subway lines and highways to sparkling shopping malls and restaurants, the bulldozers and jackhammers are working overtime as the capital prepares to host the Olympics. Visit sooner rather than later if you'd like to absorb more of the rapidly disappearing character of old Beijing.

Getting to Know Beijing -- Traffic, which has been horrendous for years, has gotten even worse, with jams coming at all hours of the day and on the weekends too. The city has begun to sporadically ban private cars with odd or even license plates on certain days, and such days see congestion lighten dramatically. But with a thousand new cars hitting the streets every day, gridlock is the norm.

The capital's previously sparse subway system was given a boost in the fall of 2007 with the opening of Line 5, which runs past the east gate of the Temple of Heaven, up to Dong Dan, Dong Si, Lama Temple and further north to the east side of Yayun Cun (Asian Games Village). The subway system will be further improved by the summer of 2008, just in time for the Olympics, with the opening of Lines L1, 8, and 10. Line L1 should be particularly handy for travelers, as it connects the airport with Dong Zhi Men, an extensive bus and subway interchange point in central Beijing, and Line 8 is particularly important for Olympic goers, as it will connect passengers to Olympic Park and the Olympic Sports Center. It juts off of Line 10, which runs along the east and north side of third-ring road, with stops at China World (Guomao) and Gongti Beilu, near the Sanlitun Bar Street.

A new bus and subway terminal at Dong Zhi Men will be open by summer 2008, and an interchange was recently completed at Xi Zhi Men. The Da Zhalan area is undergoing an intensive renovation that will result in the bulldozing of many old alleys and the installation of a pedestrian street, new shops, and a trolley.

In the hutong (the traditional alley neighborhoods of Beijing) not far from Hou Hai Lake, the alley of Nan Luogu Xiang has blossomed into a gentrified neighborhood of cafes, bars, restaurants, and shops. It's an ideal place to see old Beijingers rubbing elbows with the hip, urban youth of China.

Finally, a much anticipated project at the former American embassy near Tian'an Men Square and its environs known as The Legation opens in early 2008, with restaurants including an outpost of Daniel, the well-known French restaurant in New York.

Where to Stay -- The old central neighborhoods of Beijing offer some wonderful new accommodations that provide comfort and character. At the top of the list are Hotel Côté Cour S.L., an elegant boutique hotel that is set in a traditional Chinese courtyard and Hotel Kapok, a trendy, Chinese-managed four-star boutique property set just steps away from the Forbidden City. Gu Xiang 20, on the boutique shops-and-cafe crammed alley of Nan Luogu Xiang, offers pleasant views of the hutong from its third-floor rooms. For those seeking a flavor of old Beijing on a tighter budget, Qomolangma Hotel, Peking Downtown Backpackers Accommodation, and Hutonger are good bets. Though not in the central alley neighborhoods of Beijing, Days Joiest Inn Beijing near the Temple of Heaven, is also a good budget option.

For those looking to splurge, Beijing is no longer short of luxurious accommodations, with close to a dozen five-star hotels having opened in the two years running up to the Olympics. One of our top picks is the Raffles Beijing, which is steps away from Tian'an Men Square and the Forbidden City and brings a colonial, old-world charm to the burly capital. Not far from the Raffles is The Regent, an elegant property with touches of sandalwood and Chinese antiques throughout, and next door is its four-star sister hotel The Park Plaza, which offers a great location and value. In the nascent just-booming financial district (Jinrong Jie) in the west of town, the Ritz Carlton, Financial Street and The Westin Beijing, Financial Street offer deluxe accommodations and a retreat from the chaotic streets of Beijing. In the far north of town, the stylish Beijing Marco Polo Parkside offers views of the Olympic Stadium and Park.

The growth of five-star hotels has spurred existing ones to renovate, including the Shangri-La Beijing, which features the luxurious new Valley Wing of executive rooms and the Hilton Beijing, which now bills itself as a boutique property. The St. Regis Beijing, known for its top-notch service, will be reopening the spring of 2008 after remodeling its rooms.

As of press time, several other five-star hotels in the central business district were planning to open in time for the Olympics, including the Mandarin Oriental, JW Marriott, a second Ritz Carlton, and the much-anticipated Park Hyatt Beijing, which we predict will be the city's swankiest hotel when it opens in early 2008.

Where to Dine -- Northern Chinese cuisine, with its emphasis on noodles, dumplings, garlic, and chiles, is not the most refined of cuisines, but it's hearty, fulfilling, and nothing like the Chinese food in your home country. For a choice of 60 varieties of dumplings and home-style dishes, visit the perennially packed and inexpensive Xian'r Lao Man. In a pleasant park with rooftop alfresco dining, Xiao Wang Fu offers terrific Peking duck and home-style favorites. If you'd like to sample inventive Chinese cuisine and don't mind splurging, the Whampoa Club Beijing serves Hong Kong-born chef Jereme Leung's interpretation of northern food.

A slew of stylish Chinese restaurants have opened in the last couple of years, including the very-hyped Lan. A Philippe Starck-designed emporium of kitsch, Lan is the flagship of a popular chain of Sichuan restaurants and offers decent spicy fare. Less assuming and more effective in its design is People 8, a Taiwanese-owned fusion restaurant with a dimmed, subterranean setting. Equally dark in its setting is the Buddhist-inspired vegetarian haven of Pure Lotus.

Set menus, which take the stress out of ordering, seem to be the new trend in Beijing, with restaurants ditching paper menus and leaving you to the whims of their chefs. The classy Source, set in a Chinese courtyard, offers a set menu of Sichuan dishes. Hidden in the hutong is Dali Courtyard, another gem that offers set courses of southwestern Chinese cuisine. In a more modern setting nearby is Paper, which features a series of small platters of Cantonese cuisine.

European and continental cuisines continue to improve in the capital. Set in an alley in a courtyard is Vineyard, which offers a hearty English breakfast, pastas, and terrific thin-crust pizza. Several popular European restaurants are scattered near the embassy district, including the Brazilian-inspired continental cuisine of Alameda, the elegant and homey Spanish tapas of Mare, and the traditional Italian fare of Assaggi.

Five-star hotels in Beijing have broken the mold of offering boring hotel food. The Shangri-La Beijing's Blu Lobster brings a touch of London-style molecular gastronomy with a menu featuring foams, foie gras, and lobster, of course. Cepe, in the Ritz Carlton Financial Street, offers some of the city's best Italian cuisine in an elegant setting. The Raffles Beijing's Jaan serves delicious French cuisine and offers decently priced lunch options.

Finally, in a testimony to Beijing's cosmopolitan dining scene, the Persian Rumi offers delicious grilled kebabs, stews, and hummus in a pristine white setting. Haiku by Hatsune offers a trendy atmosphere of models chowing down on sushi rolls and sake.

Exploring Beijing -- By the time you arrive, the Forbidden City should be finished with an extensive renovation, which saw the removal of a controversial Starbucks. The nearby National Museum plans to reopen its doors in 2009, after a three-year renovation project. Also in the area, the Legation, a high-end luxury project featuring restaurants, bars, and galleries, aims to open by early 2008.

Fahai Si, a temple in the far west of Beijing with Buddhist murals, has recently undergone a renovation and should be open by the time you arrive.

Several new museums have opened in Beijing, including the well-curated Beijing Planning and Exhibition Hall and the Capital Museum, both of which give a look at Beijing's past and present. For film buffs, the China National Film Museum is a must-see. While not exactly a museum, Happy Valley is the capital's answer to Disneyland. The theme park features intense roller coasters and themed lands including the Tibetan Shangri-La, a Greek village, and a Mayan temple.

Shopping -- The general trend in Beijing is towards temperature-controlled Western-style shopping malls. The best of the bunch are The Place and Shin Kong Place, both located in the central business district. For books, try the Foreign Language Bookstore, which offers a significantly larger selection of books than before, and Timezone 8 Art Books in the 798 art district. For Beijing-inspired design, Things of the Jing, not far from the 798 art district, and Bannerman Tang's Toys and Crafts, are places for unique souvenirs.

Beijing After Dark -- The capital's renowned music scene continues to get bigger with the opening of a number of venues, including MAO Livehouse, D-22, and The Star Live. The very popular venue Yu Gong Yi Shan has moved to snazzier digs near the hutong. Two popular bars that offer live music regularly are Salud, on the gentrified street of Nan Luogu Xiang, and Stone Boat Bar, a cozy spot in a Beijing park.

If it's DJs you're looking for, Alfa, China Doll, Mix, and Vic's, all located at or near Worker's Stadium, offer dancing until the early morning hours. In the university district, Lush and Propaganda have sweaty dance floors and debauchery for the younger set.

For those looking for a slightly more elegant setting, Face Bar offers wine and cocktails in a southeast-Asian inspired setting, and Q Bar has become well-known for its bartending team. And for those seeking a non-alcoholic yet hedonistic treat, the gelato cafe Gustamenta offers dessert even at late-night hours.

Around Beijing -- The Great Wall finally boasts respectable lodgings, allowing you to appreciate its ancient ramparts at sunset and sunrise. If expense is no object, treat yourself to The Commune, a set of avant-garde architectural homes converted into a boutique hotel, set near Juyong Guan. New to this edition is a side-trip to Jiankou. It's a challenging, rarely-traversed part of the wall, where you can take a pristine 5-hour hike with gorgeous scenery. Afterwards, tuck into a country meal (Chinese-style) at the Mountain Bar Lodge, which also offers bungalow-style accommodations.