Walking Tour 1

Liulichang & Da Zhalan

Start: Zhengyi Ci Xilou, just south of the metro on Qian Men Xii Heyan Jie (metro: Heping Men, 207).

Finish: Qian Men, south end of Tian'an Men Guangchang (metro: Qian Men, 208).

Time: 3 hours.

Best times: Any weekday starting at about 9am or 2pm.

Worst times: Weekends are crowded. Most shops close about 8:30pm.

This pleasant stroll takes in many of Beijing's most famous shops. Even if you're not interested in buying anything, it makes an agreeable break from the fumes of the capital's constantly gridlocked streets. Liulichang, named for a factory that once turned out the glazed roof tiles that clearly delineated the rank of Beijing's buildings, was renovated in the 1980s to capture the look and atmosphere of the late Qing dynasty. Scholars and art connoisseurs once frequented Liulichang, and it is still home to the most famous art-supplies store in China, Rongbao Zhai. There is a cluster (at times it feels like a gauntlet) of shops selling art books, scrolls, rubbings, handmade paper, paintbrushes, ink sticks, "jade," and antiques (which are nearly all fakes). Liulichang runs about 6 blocks east-west. Southeast of it is Da Zhalan, an ancient, but more plebeian, shopping street that has been converted into a cobblestoned pedestrian-only mall. There are many ancient shops on Da Zhalan, including tailors, shoe stores, and apothecaries selling traditional medicines. North of Da Zhalan, the market streets of Langfang Er Tiao and Langfang Tou Tiao wind their ways towards Qian Men (Front Gate) overlooking Tian'an Men Square.

Walk south from the Heping Men metro station down Nan Xinhua Jie, and take the first left onto Qian Men Xi Heyan Jie, where you'll find:

1. Zhengyi Ci Xilou

Dating back more than 340 years, much of the history of Beijing Opera is tied up with this delightful theater, which began life as a Buddhist temple during the Ming dynasty. It's fairly quiet these days, although there are occasional evening performances (call tel. 010/6317-7354 to check). During the day, opera fans gather to practice their art, and for a fee of ¥5 (60¢), you will be allowed to view the magnificently restored interior.

Backtrack to the main road and continue south to Liulichang Xi Jie. On the right-hand side of the road is:

2. Cathay Bookshop (No. 18)

One of several branches of China Books, this bookshop (south side of street; tel. 010/6301-7678) has a great range of art materials -- paper, ink stones, chops, brushes, and frames -- at far more reasonable prices than you'll find at . . .

3. Rongbao Zhai (No. 19)

The most renowned art shop in China (north side of street) greets you with what may be the world's largest ink stone. Rongbao Zhai sells woodblock prints, copies of famous calligraphy, historic paintings (reproductions), and art supplies. The handful of workers who are more interested in doing their jobs than in reading the paper are gold mines of information on Beijing's art scene.

Directly opposite is:

4. Fushan Huacai (No. 36)

This shop sells a range of Western and traditional Chinese instruments. Upstairs, you'll find classical sheet music at very reasonable prices. The names of the composers are usually written above the scores.

Further west, the street is due to be demolished to make way for a patch of lawn that no one is allowed to sit on. So backtrack to Nan Xinhua Jie and cross the footbridge to Liulichang Dong Jie. On the north side is:

5. Zhongguo Shudian (No. 115)

Although it's a sprawling, state-run mess, the largest branch of China Books offers a wide range of books on Chinese art, architecture, and literature without the markups that plague arty bookstores.

Continue east to:

6. Songyun Ge (No. 106)

This tiny shop, founded in 1903, stocks a marvelous collection of antiquarian books.

7. Curio Shops

Further east, the street peters out into in a series of bric-a-brac shops. The sea of credit card signs is fair warning of why the vendors are so friendly. But you'll find a fascinating jumble of Buddhist statuary, lacquerware, ceramics, cloisonne, and jewelry, alongside old pipes, clocks, snuffboxes, and general bric-a-brac.

Liulichang Dong Jie ends at Yanshou Jie. Head south before turning onto the second street on your left (Yingtao Xie Jie), which leads to:

8. Da Zhalan (Dashilanr in Beijing dialect)

Known as Langfang Si Tiao during the Ming dynasty, its name was changed to Da Zhalan after a large stockade was built, presumably to give peace of mind to the wealthy retailers who set up shop here. Now the proletarian answer to Wangfujing, it's a bustling pedestrian-only street boasting some of Beijing's oldest retailers.

In the first block on the right side, you'll find:

9. Nei Lian Sheng Xiedian (No. 34)

Established in 1853, this famous shoe store (tel. 010/6301-4863) still crafts cloth "happy shoes" (qianceng buxie) and delicately embroidered women's shoes by hand. Using a little bit of charm, you may get a peek at the workshop out back.

Turn left at thenext street, and at the end of the block on the right you'll find:

10. Tongren Tang (No. 24)

Established in 1669, Beijing's most celebrated dispenser of traditional Chinese medicines (tel. 010/6303-1155) has been imitated from Shenyang to San Francisco. In the building to the west is a clinic where you can have your pulse read and receive a prescription for your deficiencies. Reassuringly, everyone is lacking something. The second floor stocks raw herbs, including a single ginseng root (said to boost male yang energy) from Changbai Shan in the northeast retailing for ¥380,000 ($47,500).

Take a Break--Now is a good time to stop for a cup of tea and a Chinese steamed pastry on the second floor of Zhang Yiyuan Chaye Dian, Da Zhalan Jie 22 (tel. 010/6303-1082; open daily 8am-7pm). The shop sells a bewildering range of teas at reasonable prices. If you're feeling peckish, there's a branch of the celebrated dumpling restaurant, Goubuli Baozi Dian, diagonally opposite.

You're nearly at the east end of Da Zhalan. Don't miss its most famous store, on the left (north) side:

11. Ruifuxiang Choubu Dian (No. 5)

Established in 1893 on the north side of Da Zhalan, this fabric store (open daily 9am-8pm) was once the prime outlet for Qing dynasty royalty and rich merchants. Sadly, the rich, dark wood panels of the original shop have been replaced by chipboard. Expect to bargain 30% to 50% off the marked prices of the vast selection of silks. A tailor-made qipao (cheongsam) will cost upwards of ¥500 ($60). Allow 1 week, with a couple of fittings.

Turn right down Liangshi Dian Jie, the last hutong before Qian Men Dajie. On the right, you'll find:

12. Liubiju Jiangyuan (No. 3)

Pickles and sauces of every imaginable variety sit in glass-covered ceramic vats. Parts of this dimly lit store look like they've been untouched since they opened for business 400 years ago.

To the south lies Bejing's old red-light district. If time permits, explore the quiet lanes of the area once known as:

13. Ba Da Hutong (Eight Great Lanes)

A 1906 survey found that the capital boasted 308 brothels (more than the number of hotels or restaurants), most of them in this district. While there are assuredly now many multiples of that number in Beijing, the government is embarrassed by this area, and forbids local tour agents from visiting or even mentioning Ba Da Hutong. Lanes were once graded into three levels, from "lower area" (xia chu) streets such as Wangpi Hutong, where prostitutes satisfied the needs of the masses, up to lanes such as Baishun Hutong, where "flower girls" versed in classical poetry and music awaited. Money was no guarantee of success; there were various manuals on the etiquette of wooing courtesans. The Tongzhi emperor (reign 1862-1874) was notorious for creeping out at night to sample the delights of "clouds and rain." He died of syphilis. These days, hair salons in nearby alleys are unlikely to house courtesans skilled in the arts of conversation and playing the lute, but the basic requirements of the masses are provided for.

North of Da Zhalan the hutong becomes Zhubaoshi Jie, a jumble of stands, shops, and carts peddling cheap clothing and bric-a-brac. Take the first left into:

14. Langfang Er Tiao

During the Qing dynasty, this hutong was renowned for its jade and antiques vendors. Two- and three-story houses with beautifully carved wooden balconies hint at past wealth. To the south is Langfang San Tiao, the heart of the former banking district.

Head right (north) along Meishi Jie up to Langfang Tou Tiao, known as Lantern Street (Deng Jie) during the Qing dynasty. Turn right (east). Ahead looms:

15. Qian Men (Front Gate)

North of Zhubaoshi Jie is the south end of Tian'an Men Square. To the northeast you'll see the old Front Gate (Qian Men or more correctly Zhengyang Men), a towering remnant of the city wall through which the emperors passed on their annual procession from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven. Ascend the tower for excellent views of Tian'an Men Square to the north and Da Zhalan to the southwest. There's also a photographic exhibition of the streets and walls of old Beijing.

Winding Down--The world's largest KFC is a block west on the south side of Qian Men Xi Dajie. Continuing west, you can take in the nightly performance of opera and acrobatics at Lao She Teahouse (Lao She Chaguan). It's worth paying extra for a seat close to the front. Performances start at 7:50pm and usually run for about 90 minutes. Call to book a spot (tel. 010/6303-6830). Tea and pastries are included.