City Central Youth Hostel (Beijing Zhan Qian Jie 1; tel. 010/6525-8066): The railway station area finally boasts a well-run, affordable hotel. Explicitly modeled on Sydney's Central YHA, this hostel set in the old post office building has simply furnished rooms with spotless bathrooms and free in-room broadband for just ¥268 ($33).
Far East Youth Hostel (Tieshu Xie Jie 113; tel. 010/6301-8811, ext. 3118): The best budget option in Beijing is located at the center of one of the city's most interesting hutong neighborhoods, only a 10-minute walk from both the Heping Men and Qian Men metro stops. It has clean, nicely renovated three-star rooms at unbeatable rates (¥200/$25 with a little bargaining).
Feiying Binguan (Xuanwu Men Xi Dajie 10; tel. 010/6317-1116): The most "hotel-like" branch of Youth Hostelling International in Beijing. Dorms have in-room bathroom and brand-new floors, and beds are only ¥60 ($7.50).
4 The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences
Dao Jia Chang (Guangxi Men Beili 20; tel. 010/6422-1078): Loud as any street market, with service like a hurricane, this inexpensive eatery offers the most memorable experience of the capital's native cuisine, from shouted welcome to final belch.
Kejia Cai (Southeast bank of Qian Hai; tel. 010/6404-2259): There are fancier places to eat in Beijing, but none can top the Hakka minority food of this charming establishment. Literally every item on the menu sings with flavor. The paper-wrapped fish is culinary Nirvana. Add a charming location, delightful decor, and reasonable prices.
Kong Yiji Jiulou (Northwest bank of Hou Hai; tel. 010/6618-4917): This crowded restaurant is decorated with the trappings of Chinese scholarship and named for the scholar-bum protagonist of a Lu Xun short story. It specializes in the delicate and delicious Huaiyang dishes of northern Zhejiang, the author's place of origin, as well as the birthplace of "yellow wine" which impaired his character's career.
RBL (Dong'an Men Dajie 53; tel. 010/6522-1389): Newly opened RBL oozes chic simplicity, and is the closest the capital comes to a serious upscale dining adventure. Aside from the excellent Japanese-inspired cuisine, there's an adventurous wine list and superb cocktails. Round off the occasion by taking in a world-class live jazz performance in the attached subterranean bar, Icehouse.
