In One Day

Fortunately for the harried tourist, when the Mongol founders laid down the Beijing (then Khanbalik) city grid, it was on a north-south axis, making navigation straightforward, and grouping the key landmarks in a central location. The main downside, for which Kublai Khan cannot be blamed, is that there are few dining options en route, so we recommend that you either eat a hearty breakfast at your hotel, or take a picnic. Tai Miao and Beihai Park are both fine picnic spots. Start: Metro to Qian Men (208, exit A).

1. Chairman Mao's Mausoleum (Mao Zhuxi Jinian Guan)

Built on the site of Da Qing Men (Great Qing Gate) this hastily constructed building is unimpressive in itself, but what makes this site compelling is the genuine reverence of local visitors for The Great Helmsman. A memorable 15 minutes of people watching. Note: The Mausoleum is closed Sundays.

Immediately north of the Mausoleum lies:

2. Tian'an Men Square (Tian'an Men Guangchang)

Set on the site of the former Imperial Way, the broad square is also a recent creation, dating from the 1950s when Mao, encouraged by his Soviet advisors, ordered the clearing away of the old government ministries. There were plans to "press down" the "feudal" Forbidden City by surrounding it with high-rise buildings and smokestacks, but the fledgling republic lacked the resources to carry out the plan.

To your left looms the Great Hall of the People, to your right is the National Museum, neither worth a visit if you're pressed for time. Impressive in its vastness, there's little to do in the Square unless you plan to cut short your tour by unfurling a protest banner.

Walk north, taking the underpass to:

3. Tian'an Men (Gate of Heavenly Peace)

Climb to the dais above Mao's portrait for a view south along the former Imperial Way. Beyond Qian Men (Front Gate) you may spy the newly reconstructed Yongding Men. It's not in the same spot as the original, but it is one of the first steps in a plan to revamp the north-south axis. A boulevard connecting to Olympic Park in the north of town is underway, with input from Albert Speer, Jr., who also happens to be the son of Hitler's personal architect.

A less traditional structure is apparent to your right: the National Theater resembles a UFO that made an emergency landing in a pond.

Head east to:

4. Tai Miao

Nearly all visitors head immediately north to the main entrance to the Forbidden City. Resist the pull of the throng and take the time to explore Tai Miao -- adjacent to and just east of the main entrance -- you'll be rewarded with halls every bit as impressive as those inside the Forbidden City, but with a handful of visitors.

The Chinese countryside is dotted with ancestral halls, often the finest structure in the village. Most were converted to schools after the revolution, although some now are reverting to their original usage. There's little chance of that happening at this imperial equivalent, where emperors would worship their forbears at New Year, each of the four seasons, and on their birthday.

Turn left as you exit, you'll soon reach:

5. Forbidden City (Gu Gong)

The majority of visitors to Beijing's main attraction rent their audio tour and rush through the central route without ducking into the eastern and western axes. This is a mistake. While narrator Roger Moore is droll, the most charming and intriguing parts of the Forbidden City are located away from the main tourist route. Allow at least 3 hours, and do not miss newly opened sights, particularly the Wuying Dian (west side) and Juanqin Zhai (northeast side).

Take A Break -- There's something so overwhelmingly naughty about the Starbucks Empire penetrating to the once-sacred heart of China that I can never resist stopping here for a latte with all the trimmings. Located east of the entrance to the Inner Court, their cause is also strengthened by other food outlets serving utterly diabolical fare.

East of Qianqing Men. (tel. 010/8511-7520-).

If you wish to gain an aerial view of the Forbidden City, proceed to Jing Shan Gongyuan, immediately opposite the north entrance to the Forbidden City. If time is short, head west to:

6. Bei Hai Gongyuan (Bei Hai Park)

After all the grandeur you've just sampled, you'll find that this park, set around a lake carved out in the 12th century, provides a welcome change. On the south side of the park, Qiong Dao, an islet topped by a white dagoba built to commemorate the visit of the first Dalai Lama to the capital, is worth a quick look.

The north side of the park is more interesting, so catch a boat from the islet to the opposite side of the lake. Don't miss Daci Zhenru Bao Dian; this Buddhist hall is one of the most impressive structures in Beijing.

Emerging from the north of the park, turn right and cross at the first set of lights. Head back in the direction you came before turning right. Follow the southeast bank of Qian Hai to the finest Chinese restaurant in Beijing.

Take A Break -- There is no finer spot to spend the evening in the capital than the Back Lakes area, and there is no finer purveyor of Chinese food than Kejia Cai, a chic Hakka restaurant. On the southeast bank of Qian Hai (tel. 010/6404-2259). After your meal, pleasant walking awaits in the surrounding hutong (small lanes), or seek out one of the many bars and Back Lakes restaurants we recommend in this guide, and put your feet up.