In Two Days

If you've survived "The Best of Beijing in 1 Day," you'll find your second full-day tour takes in a different part of Beijing. Today we'll take you in the footsteps of the notorious Empress Dowager, Cixi. Start: Lama Temple/Yong He Gong metro stop (215, exit B).

1. Yong He Gong (Lama Temple)

During the Qing dynasty, the official religion of China was, unlikely as it seems, Tibetan Buddhism. However, in Beijing, Buddhism was very much a religion for the rulers. Many emperors styled themselves as reincarnations of Bodhisattvas (beings who have delayed nirvana in order to help others), and Cixi was known as "the old Buddha."

Head for the rear hall, which houses a marvelous statue of Maitreya (the future Buddha).

Walk west to:

2. Guo Zi Jian and Kong Miao

Cixi was also an enthusiastic defender of the Confucian tradition, and fought to preserve the imperial examination system, which was managed by the all-powerful Guo Zi Jian (the Directorate of Education). It's a quiet spot now, except when university entrance examinations are held.

You can easily cover both sites in half an hour. Duck into Shengtang Xuan (tel. 010/8404-7179), a Manchurian toy store diagonally opposite.

Return to the metro, and change to Line 13 to reach Wudaokou metro stop (1304).

Take A Break -- Before Starbucks decided the market was ripe for its first venture in China, Sculpting in Time (Diaoke Shiguang), a tiny cafe next to Peking University, was the city's only oasis for coffee lovers. It has since spawned a host of imitators, and has four branches; this is the largest. Try the carbonara, as well as delicious chocolate brownies. (Chengfu Lu Huaqing Jiayuan 12 Lou 1 [just west of metro]; tel. 010/8286-7025).

The afternoon holds plenty of walking, so be sure you're well fed before heading on.

Hop in a taxi, or take bus 743 to Tian'an Men Square:

Walk north, taking the underpass to:

3. Tian'an Men (Gate of Heavenly Peace)

Climb to the dais above Mao's portrait for a view south along the former Imperial Way. Beyond Qian Men ("Front Gate") you may spy the newly-reconstructed city gate, Yongding Men . It's not in the same spot as the original, but it is one of the first steps in a plan to revamp the north-south axis. A boulevard connecting to Olympic Park in the north of town is underway, with input from Albert Speer Jr., who also happens to be the son of Hitler's personal architect.

A less traditional structure is apparent to your right: the National Theater resembles a UFO that made an emergency landing in a pond.

4. Yuan Ming Yuan

If pushed for time, just visit the northeast side of the park, which is home to the remnants of the Xi Yang Lou (Western Mansions). These buildings were razed by British and French forces a year before Cixi rose to Empress Dowager status. They featured spectacular fountains and housed magnificent European art, but it could have been worse -- the Anglo-French forces considered destroying the Forbidden City.

If you're feeling peckish, north of the Dong Men (East Gate) you'll find the magnificently decorated Mima Cafe.

Hop in a cab to reach the east entrance (Dong Gong Men) of:

5. Summer Palace (Yi He Yuan)

Later in her rule, Cixi spent a considerable amount of time in this watery imperial playground, even setting up her own photographic studio. Modeled on Hangzhou's West Lake, the complex was ransacked by foreign troops in 1860 and 1900, and restored under Cixi's orders, on the first occasion with funds earmarked for the navy. The lake is the gem of the palace: Escape the crowds for an hour or so by hiring a boat, or in winter, a pair of skates. On land, allow 3 hours for a cursory look around.

Proceed to the south exit to join a rusty "imperial yacht."

After about half an hour, you'll spot what appears to be a temple on your left. Hop off to visit:

6. Wanshou Si

The Empress Dowager would break up her journey from the Forbidden City to the Summer Palace with a stopover here, and after all the ground you've covered, this smallish temple makes a pleasant change. Just to the east is Zizhu Yuan Gongyuan (Purple Bamboo Park), a delightful spot to watch the sun go down.