In Three Days

Having traveled north in the footsteps of the Empress Dowager, your next day takes you south for a dose of religion and ritual. Commence in a tiny Buddhist monastery, follow the emperors in an entreaty for the harvest, bargain for pearls and silk, search for ill omens at an ancient observatory, and then settle in for a martini and a magnificent sunset. Start: Xuanwu Men metro (206, exit D1).

1. Fayuan Si (Source of Dharma Temple)

The gates of this tranquil monastery open at 8:30am, so early risers should duck into the back lanes to explore the surrounding hutong neighborhood. The monastery is the most venerable in Beijing, and the neighborhood also has an agreeable air of antiquity. The government says this area is "protected," so visit it before they send in the bulldozers. Note: Temple closed on Wednesdays.

Take a short cab ride east to:

2. Gudai Jianzhu Bowuguan (Museum of Ancient Architecture)

Following prayers for a good harvest at the Temple of Heaven, the emperor and his officials would chance their arm at farming here: the emperor sowing rice, while his officials planted a coarser grain, millet. It is now a compelling museum housed in buildings as magnificent as those in the Forbidden City. Allow at least an hour.

Walk east to find the west gate of:

3. Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan Gongyuan)

Beijing's most emblematic building, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests (Qinian Dian) is said to be closed for renovations until October 2006. If it is closed when you visit, just purchase park admission, rather than the more expensive all-inclusive ticket (lian piao). The park is vast, and perfect for a quick picnic.

Xref ref is to temple of heaven

Two hours are required for a look around the extensive grounds, by which time you'll be ready for a hearty bowl of noodles.

Take A Break -- Departing Tian Tan via the east gate, turn left and walk north to find Lao Beijing Zhajiang Mian Dawang, a cheap but clean Beijing diner next to a pedestrian overpass. No English is spoken here, so turn to appendix A to order traditional Beijing fare, such as the signature zhajiang mian (wheat noodles with black bean mince) or pungent ma doufu (mashed soybean). Lunch ends abruptly at 2pm. (Chongwen Men Wai Dajie 29; tel. 010/6705-6705).

After lunch, it's time to shop. Just around the corner is:

4. Yuanlong Silk

Tour groups descend on Yuanlong at noon, so aim to arrive slightly later. On the third floor you'll find a staggering array of silk fabric, only surpassed by the fabric wholesalers in Zhejiang Cun, south of the Third Ring Road. You'll need 2 days to spare to have a suit or qipao made up.

Cross the pedestrian overpass and turn right (south) and follow your nose to:

5. Hong Qiao Shichang

The knockoff merchandise here is cheaper than Yaxiu, but generally of poorer quality. Footwear and luggage are your best choices, but the real value is in the pearls on the third and fourth floors, and the toys in the seldom-visited toy market (wanju shichang), behind the main building. If you're feeling weighed down by all your purchases, there's a post office on the fourth floor.

By 2007 there will be a metro stop (Tian Tan Dong Men ) outside. Take the metro to Jianguo Men (120/211, exit C). Before then, take a cab for the short ride north to:

6. Ancient Observatory (Gu Guanxiang Tai)

The Ancient Observatory admits the last visitors at 4:30pm, so if time is tight, head straight to Wangfujing Dijie (below). The observatory offers a fascinating insight into early interactions between European (usually Jesuits) scientists and the Chinese court.

Ride the subway two stops west to:

7. Wangfujing Dijie

In contrast to today's first destination, this pedestrian mall is "new China," the side the regime is desperate for you to see. Those with weary legs may wish to duck into Oriental Plaza for coffee and air-conditioned comfort, while the energetic can sample part of our Walking Tour of Wangfujing.

Be sure to reach your final destination before sunset.

Take A Break -- With nothing but air between you and the Forbidden City, the rooftop bar Palace View Bar (Guan Jing Jiuba) offers a magical spot to view Beijing's pollution-enhanced sunset. Open May through September. In the Grand Hotel (tel. 010/6513-7788, ext. 458).