At the same time that the Yongle emperor built the Forbidden City, he also oversaw construction of this enormous park and altar to Heaven directly to the south. Each winter solstice, the Ming and Qing emperors would lead a procession here to perform rites and make sacrifices designed to promote the next year's crops and curry favor with Heaven for the general health of the empire. It was last used for this purpose by the president of the Republic, Yuan Shikai, on the winter solstice of December 23, 1914, updated with photographers, electric lights (the height of modernity at the time), and a bulletproof car for the entrance of the increasingly unpopular president. This effectively announced his intent to promote himself as the new emperor, but few onlookers shared his enthusiasm. Formerly known as the Temple of Heaven and Earth, the park is square (symbolizing Earth) in the south and rounded (symbolizing Heaven) in the north.
Essentials -- Temple of Heaven Park (Tian Tan Gongyuan; tel. 010/6702-8866) is south of Tian'an Men Square, on the east side of Qian Men Dajie. It's open daily from 6am to 8pm (may close earlier in winter, depending on weather and staff decisions), but the ticket offices and major sights are only open from 8am to 5:30pm. All-inclusive tickets (lian piao) cost ¥35 ($4.65/£2.35) (¥30/$4/£2 in winter); simple park admission costs ¥15 ($2/£1). The east gate (dong men) is easily accessed by public transport; take the no. 39, 106, or 110 bus just north of the Chongwen Men metro stop (209, exit B) to Fahua Si. However, the best approach is from the south gate (nan men), the natural starting point for a walk that culminates in the magnificent Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.
Seeing the Highlights -- During the Cultural Revolution, Tian Tan lost its perfect symmetry as large bites were taken out of the southwest and southeast corners. There's no sign that the land will be returned, with massive apartment blocks ready to sprout on both corners, but it's still a vast park that takes at least 2 hours to see in any depth. The west gate is convenient to the Altar of Agriculture and Wansheng Juchang. At the northeast corner lie the shopping delights of Yuanlong Silk Co. Ltd. and Hong Qiao Shichang.
