Hatsune (Yin Qhuan)

Hatsune is sushi sacrilege via Northern California, with a list of innovative rolls long and elaborate enough to drive serious raw-fish traditionalists to ritual suicide. The unconventional attitude is also reflected in the stylish space, high-ceilinged and sleek, with a long glass-and-metal entryway and a rock garden path leading to the bathrooms. Nearly every item on the menu is among the best of its kind in the city, but the rolls are what make this place truly special. With the single exception of the Beijing Roll, a roast-duck and "special sauce" gimmick, you simply can't go wrong. The 119 Roll, with bright red tuna inside and out, topped with a divine spicy-sweet sauce, absolutely should not be missed.

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