Yuxiang Renjia

Franchise food in the Chinese capital doesn't carry the same connotations of blandness it does in the West. Yuxiang Renjia, a constantly crowded chain of restaurants with bright mock-village decor and a talent for producing authentic Sichuan fare, is a case in point. Dishes are slightly heavy on the oil but as flavorful as anything found outside Sichuan itself. The spicy familiar gongbao jiding (diced chicken with peanuts and hot peppers) is superb, putting American versions of "kung pao chicken" to shame. They also produce several worthwhile dishes you aren't likely to have tried before, including an interesting smoked duck (zhangcha ya) and the "stewed chicken with Grandma's sauce" (laoganma shao ji). Waitstaff sometimes gets overwhelmed, and the impressive decor isn't matched by the hygiene.

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