Yunnan Jin Kongque Dehong Daiwei Canguan

The street north of the Minorities University (Minzu Daxue) was once a claustrophobic hutong packed with Uighur, Korean, and Dai restaurants. Chaps who addressed you as "Hashish" are gone, along with most of the restaurants. But this holy grail of Dai cuisine remains, offering a superb synthesis of Thai and Chinese fare. Mirrors, tiled floors, and predictable bamboo furnishings lend it a sterile feel, but the gracious waitstaff more than compensates. Must-devour dishes include crispy tudou qiu (deep-fried potato balls with chili sauce), delectable boluo fan (pineapple rice), zhutong zhurou (steamed pork with coriander), zhutong ji (chicken soup), and zha xiangjiao (deep-fried banana) for dessert. Wash it all down with sweet rice wine (mi jiu), served in a bamboo cup.

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