Cafe Sambal

Sambal embraces and surpasses all the clichés of a chic Beijing eatery. It's a cozy courtyard house decorated with antique and modern furnishings, relaxed service, and a well-balanced wine list. And then there's the food, prepared by a charming chef from Kuala Lumpur. You'll need to call a day in advance for the superb double-braised Australian lobster in nyonya sauce, or the incredibly fresh chili curry crab, served on a bed of curry leaves, dried shrimp, and chili paste. Try the fried four-sided bean with cashew-nut sauce, or the yogurt-based mutton curry. Don't miss the signature dish, Kapitan chicken, a mildly spicy dish with a nutty aftertaste, said to have been invented when Chinese migrants reached Penang during the Ming dynasty. The kuih dadar, shredded coconut fried with palm sugar and wrapped in a padang leaf roll, is delectable.

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