Bellagio (Lu Gang Xiaozhen)

Taiwanese food, characterized by sweet flavors and subtle use of ginger, is one of the most appealing to Western palates. Bellagio's team of glam female waitstaff have an unjustified reputation for snooty service. The clientele of the Gongti branch, stumbling out from Babyface and Angel nightclubs, make for amusing people-watching. The decor is all sleek lines and shimmering beads. Don't miss the delicate shacha niurou, mustard greens combined perfectly with thinly sliced beef strips. Taiwan dofu bao, a tofu clay-pot seasoned with shallots, onion, chili, and black beans, is also remarkable, as is the signature dish, sanbei ji (chicken reduced in rice wine, sesame oil, and soy sauce). In summer, don't miss the enormous shaved-ice desserts: One serving is enough for four, but gobble it up before it comes tumbling down!

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