Taipo Tianfu Shanzhen

To make the broth for their divine hot pot, this restaurant stews a whole black-skinned chicken with 32 different kinds of mushrooms and lets the mixture reduce for hours. The mushrooms are strained but the chicken stays, served with the by-now vibrant broth in a heavy clay pot kept boiling at your table. Already a fine meal on its own, it gets even better as you add ingredients -- lamb (yangrou), beef (niurou), lotus root (ou pian), spinach (bocai), or, best of all, more mushrooms (shanjun). Many of the mushrooms, shown in their uncooked form on a series of posters hung along the walls, are imported from the southern provinces. Good enough to make converts of fungus haters.

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