Getting Around

By Car

There are only four major roads in Belize: the Northern, Western, Southern, and Hummingbird highways. All are just two-lane affairs, and all actually have speed bumps as they pass through various towns and villages along their way. Belize is only 70 or so miles (113km) wide, and around 250 miles (403km) long. Renting a car is an excellent way to see the country. If you are going to the Mountain Pine Ridge area of the Cayo District, or to the Gallon Jug or Lamanai areas, you will certainly need a four-wheel-drive vehicle. However, if you're just visiting the major towns and cities of San Ignacio, Placencia, Corozal, or Punta Gorda, you'll probably be fine in a standard sedan. That said, it's always nice to have the extra clearance and off-road ability of a four-wheel-drive vehicle, particularly during the rainy season (June through mid-Nov).

The major car-rental companies in Belize are Avis (tel. 800/230-4898 in the U.S., or 225-2385 in Belize; www.avis.com); Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S., or 223-2435 in Belize; www.budget-belize.com); Crystal Auto Rental (tel. 800/777-7777 toll-free in Belize or 223-1600; www.crystal-belize.com); and Thrifty (tel. 800/847-4389 in the U.S., or 207-1271 in Belize; www.thrifty.com). Prices run between BZ$120 (US$60) and BZ$200 (US$100) per day for a late-model compact car to a compact SUV, including insurance. Most of the rental companies above have a 25-year-old minimum age requirement for renting, although Crystal Auto Rental will rent to 21- to 24-year-olds, but with twice the deductible.

Note: It's sometimes cheaper to reserve a car in your home country than to book when you arrive in Belize. If you know you'll be renting a car, it's always wise to reserve it well in advance for the high season, as the rental fleet can't match demand.

There are so few roads in Belize that you will probably be fine using the maps in this book, or the free maps given out at the airport or by your car rental agency. If you really want a more detailed map, the Belize map produced by the International Travel Maps and Books (www.itmb.com) is a good option. You can get this and other maps at many bookstores and gift shops in Belize, if you are unable to buy it in advance either online or at a bookstore near you. Alternatively, you can pick up a copy of Emory King's regularly updated Driver's Guide to Beautiful Belize (Tropical Books, 2003).

Despite having been a British colony and current member of the Commonwealth, cars drive on the right-hand side of the road, just as in the United States. Seatbelt use is mandatory in Belize, and failure to comply carries a fine. One odd driving law in Belize is that drivers wishing to make a left-hand turn while traveling along any of the country's "highways" must first pull over to the right-hand shoulder until all oncoming and following traffic has cleared. Gas stations can be found in all the major towns and tourist destinations. At press time, a gallon of premium gas cost BZ$10 (US$5).

Note: It should go without saying, but you cannot rent a car on or drive to any of the cayes or outer atolls.

Car Rental Insurance (Loss/Damage Waiver or Collision damage Waiver) -- If you hold a private auto insurance policy, you probably are covered in the U.S., but not abroad, for loss or damage to the car, and liability in case a passenger is injured. The credit card you used to rent the car also may provide some coverage.

Car-rental insurance probably does not cover liability if you caused the accident. Check your own auto insurance policy, the rental company policy, and your credit card coverage for the extent of coverage: Is your destination covered? Are other drivers covered? How much liability is covered if a passenger is injured? (If you rely on your credit card for coverage, you may want to bring a second credit card with you, as damages may be charged to your card and you may find yourself stranded with no money.) Often included in the price, car-rental insurance runs about BZ$24 to BZ$40 (US$12-US$20) per day with an average deductible of around BZ$1,500 (US$750), although sometimes for a few extra dollars per day you can get no-fault, no-deductible coverage.

Before driving off with a rental car, be sure that you inspect the exterior and point out to the rental-company representative every tiny scratch, dent, tear, or any other damage.

Car-Rental Tips -- While it's preferable to use the coverage provided by your home auto-insurance policy or credit card, check carefully to see if the coverage really holds in Belize. Many policies exclude four-wheel-drive vehicles and off-road driving -- but good portions of Belize can in fact be considered off road. While it's possible at some car-rental agencies to waive the insurance charges, you will have to pay all damages before leaving the country if you're in an accident. If you do take the insurance, you can expect a deductible of between $750 and $1,500. At some agencies, you can buy additional insurance to lower the deductible.

By Plane

Traveling around Belize by commuter airline is common, easy, and relatively economical. Two local commuter airlines serve all the major tourist destinations around Belize, as well as Tikal, Guatemala. The carriers are Maya Island Air (tel. 223-1140; www.mayaairways.com) and Tropic Air (tel. 800/422-3435 in the U.S. or Canada, or 226-2012 in Belize; www.tropicair.com). Both operate out of both the Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport and the Belize City Municipal Airport. In both cases, flights are considerably less expensive into and out of the Municipal Airport. See the destination chapters for specific details on schedules and costs.

By Bus

Belize has an extensive network of commuter buses serving all of the major villages and towns, and tourist destinations in the country. However, this system is used primarily by Belizeans. The buses tend to be a bit antiquated, and buyouts and bankruptcies within the industry have left the status of the local bus network in a state of confusion and limbo. See the destination chapters for specific details on schedules and costs, and be sure to check in advance, or as soon as you arrive, as schedules (and costs) do change regularly.

By Boat

While it's possible to fly to a few of the outer cayes, most travel between mainland Belize and the cayes and atolls is done by high-speed launch. There are regular water taxis between Belize City and Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker, Caye Chapel, and St. George's Caye. Hotels and resorts on the other islands all either have their own boats, or can arrange transport for you.