Occupying pole position on the Città Alta’s atmospheric main piazza, Caffè del Tasso ★ (Piazza Vecchia 3; (tel) 035-237-966; main courses 8€–18€) began life as a tailor’s shop, but it’s been a cafe since 1581. Today the cafe has the gently jaded, rather cozy air of a 1950s teashop, but service is smart and they’re generous with their aperitivo snacks. Next door the gelateria does brisk trade in summer, while an early evening drink on the terrace in summer is just a step away from heaven.

Osteria della Birra ★★, at Piazza Masheroni 1/c (; (tel) 035-242-440; main courses 8€–15€), is great find in the Città Alta with a simple menu of piadine (flatbread) and panini stuffed full of local cured hams and artisanal cheeses. The raison d’etre is the beer (no wine here); the bar is run as part of the Elav microbrewery brought to life by a bunch of enthusiastic youngsters keen to promote their organic brew along with their largely organic produce.


If the weather is with you, stop off at Caffè della Funicolare in the upper terminal of the funicular and bag a table on the terrace looking straight down over Bergamo Bassa, providing some of the best views (plus a reduced funicular fare) in the upper town. It’s open Wednesday to Monday 8am to 2am for coffee or more than 50 beers, and basic snacks.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.