Aigner

Habsburg Austria lives on here. In the late 1990s, the Dorint chain bought the furnishings from one of Vienna's oldest cafes, the Aigner, and moved them into the ground floor of one of Berlin's most modern hotels. The result is a black-and-white Jugendstil setting replete with Thonet chairs. There's a lot of ambience here, thanks partly to a location that overlooks the Gendarmenmarkt; the staff provides old-fashioned service with a modern flair. The restaurant's signature dish is Tafelspitz, the boiled-beef-with-horseradish dish. Here, it's served in a big brass kettle with both haunch and shoulder of beef, with lots of soup, vegetables, savoy cabbage, crème fraîche, and apple-flavored horseradish. Other good choices include saddle of deer roasted with coffee beans; braised shoulder of lamb and pink filet of lamb with roasted artichokes; or veal dumplings with beetroot and mashed chive-studded potatoes.

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