Although much of Bermuda is modern, the first settlers arrived in 1609. The following places provide insights into the old, largely vanished Bermudian way of life.
St. David's Island (St. George's Parish): Though most of Bermuda looks pristine and proper, you'll still find some vestiges of rustic maritime life on St. David's. Some St. David's Islanders never even bother to visit neighboring St. George, and to some locals, a trip to the West End of Bermuda would be like a trip to the moon. St. David's Lighthouse has been a local landmark since 1879. To see how people used to cook and eat, drop by Black Horse Tavern.
The Royal Naval Dockyard (Sandys Parish): Nothing recaptures the maritime spirit of this little island colony more than this sprawling complex of attractions (with a multimillion-dollar cruise-ship dock) on Ireland Island. Britain began building this dockyard in 1809, perhaps fearing attacks on its fleet by Napoleon or greedy pirates. Convicts and slaves provided much of the construction labor, and the Royal Navy occupied the shipyard for almost 150 years. It closed in 1951, and the navy has little presence here today. The Maritime Museum -- the most important museum on the island -- and other exhibits on Bermuda's nautical heritage give you a good feel for a largely vanished era.
The Back Streets of St. George (St. George's Parish): Almost every visitor to the island has photographed the 17th-century stocks on King's Square in historic St. George. But it's in the narrow back alleys and cobblestone lanes, such as Shinbone Alley, that you'll really discover the town's old spirit. Arm yourself with a good map and wander at leisure through such places as Silk Alley (also called Petticoat Lane), Barber's Lane Alley (named for a former slave from South Carolina), Printer's Alley (where Bermuda's first newspaper was published), and Nea's Alley (former stamping ground of the Irish poet Tom Moore). Finally, walk through Somers Garden and head up the steps to Blockade Alley. On the hill is the aptly named Unfinished Cathedral.
