Frommer's Review
Housed in a 19th-century fortress built by convict labor, this museum exhibits artifacts, models, and maps pertaining to Bermuda's nautical heritage. The fortress's massive buildings of fitted stone, with their vaulted ceilings of English brick, are worth a visit on their own. So are the 9m (30-ft.) defensive ramparts; the underground tunnels, gun ports, and magazines; and the water gate and pond designed for boats entering from the sea. Exhibits in six large halls illustrate the island's long, intimate connection with the sea -- from Spanish exploration to 20th-century ocean liners; from racing dinghies to practical fishing boats; from shipbuilding and privateering to naval exploits.
The museum's most famous exhibit is in the 1837 Shifting House, which opened in 1979. You can see such artifacts as gold bars, pottery, jewelry, silver coins, and other items recovered from 16th- and 17th-century shipwrecks. The collection includes some earthenware and pewter that belonged to the English settlers on their way to Jamestown aboard the Sea Venture, which was wrecked in 1609. Most visitors come here to gaze at the Tucker Treasure. A well-known local diver, Teddy Tucker, made a significant find in 1955 when he discovered the wreck of the San Antonio, a Spanish vessel that had gone down off the coast of Bermuda in a violent storm in 1621. One of the great treasures of this find, the Pectoral Cross, was stolen in 1975 just before Queen Elizabeth II officially opened the museum. The priceless original cross was replaced by a fake. The original cross has not been recovered, and its mysterious disappearance is still the subject of much discussion.
As you enter the Parade Ground at the entrance to the museum, you'll notice a 3m-high (9 3/4-ft.) figure of King Neptune. This has been duplicated in Indiana limestone from a figure that was recovered from HMS Irresistible, when the ship was broken up in 1891. The Queen's Exhibition Hall houses general maritime exhibits, including displays on navigation, whaling, and cable and wireless communications. A "Bermuda in Five Hours" exhibit focuses on Pan American's early "flying boats." The building itself was constructed in 1850 for the purpose of storing 4,860 barrels of gunpowder.
The Forster Cooper Building (1852) illustrates the history of the Royal Navy in Bermuda, and includes the Bromby Bottle Collection, boasting more than 2,000 rare and antique bottles that have washed up on Bermuda's shores. Princess Margaret opened the exhibit in 1984. The Boatloft houses part of the museum's boat collections, including the century-old fitted dinghy Victory, the 5m (16-ft.) Spirit of Bermuda, and the Rambler, the only surviving Bermuda pilot gig (a commanding officer's light boat kept on a large ship). On the upper floor, the original dockyard clock, which is still working, chimes every quarter-hour. In 2000, one of the Dockyard's most impressive colonial-era buildings, the Commissioner's House, was restored and opened to the public. The ground floor of its stately looking interior is devoted to exhibits showing the contribution of Bermudians to World War I; the second floor is devoted to exhibitions about the history of marine traffic and sailing in Bermuda; and the third floor contains some of the many watercolors that ladies of distinction used to paint, usually of the Dockyards, during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Admission to the Shifting House, Queen's Exhibition Hall, Forster Cooper Building, Boatloft, and Commissioner's House are included in the entrance price to the Bermuda Maritime Museum.
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