Attractions

Before you rush off to sample the sightseeing attractions of the capital of Switzerland, stop in at the Brasserie zum Bärengraben, Muristalden 1 (tel. 031/331-42-18), immediately across the street from the Bear Pits, the town's major attraction . At a table here you can enjoy a slice of local life better than anywhere else. Many habitués settle down to read the morning news, ordering their favorite coffee, a beer, or a glass of wine.

The Top Attractions

Bärengraben (Bear Pits) is a deep, half-moon-shaped den where the bears, Bern's mascots, have been kept since 1480. According to legend, when the duke of Zähringen established the town in 1191, he sent his hunters out into the surrounding woods, which were full of wild game. The duke promised to name the city after the first animal slain, which was a Bär (bear). Since then, the town has been known as Bärn (Bern). Today the bears are beloved, pampered, and fed by both residents and visitors (carrots are most appreciated). The Bear Pits lie on the opposite side of the Nydegg Bridge (Nydeggbrücke) from the rest of Old Town. The bridge was built over one of the gorges of the Aare River; its central stone arch has a span of 54m (177 ft.) and affords a sweeping view of the city. Below the Bear Pits, you can visit the Rosengarten (Rose Gardens), with its much-photographed view of the medieval sector of the city.

Zytgloggeturm (Clock Tower) (Zeitglocketurm in standard German), on Kramgasse, was built in the 12th century and restored in the 16th century. Four minutes before every hour, crowds gather for the world's oldest and biggest horological puppet show. Mechanical bears, jesters, and emperors put on an animated performance. Staged since 1530, it's one of the longest-running acts in show business.

In Town

The town's old but dignified Rathaus (town hall), on Rathausplatz, is still a center of political life. Built in 1406 in the Burgundian Gothic style and restored during World War II, the town hall has a double staircase and a covered porch.

Nearby -- The most panoramic attraction in the immediate vicinity of Bern is the belvedere atop Mount Gurten at 844m (2,768 ft.). At its summit, there's a children's playground, a network of hiking trails, and panoramas that sweep out over the surrounding mountains and valleys. The belvedere is accessible to Bern via the Gurtenbahn, a cable-train that's one of the fastest in Europe. The train departs from a station beside the Seftigenstrasse, about a half-mile north from the center of Bern. To reach the departure platform, take tram no. 9, and get off at "Gurtenbahn," for a cost of 3.60F ($2.95/£1.55) each way, to the Gurtenbahn station. The trip takes 4 minutes each way. If driving, follow the road signs to Thun. A parking lot in the hamlet of Wabern is a short walk from the cable-train station.

Round-trip passage on the cable-train to the belvedere costs 9F ($7.40/£3.85). The train operates year-round daily from 7:30am to sunset (depending on the season). For information, contact Gurtenbahn Bern, Eigerplatz (tel. 031/961-23-23).

Especially For Kids

Dählhölzli Tierpark, Tierparkweg (tel. 031/357-15-15), is one of the most interesting zoos in Europe. It offers a complete range of European creatures, from the tiny harvest mouse to the mighty musk oxen. You can admire more than 2,000 animals, including exotic birds, reptiles, and fish in the vivarium. Admission is 8F ($6.55/£3.40) for adults, 4F ($3.30/£1.70) for children 6 to 16, free for children 5 and under. The zoo is open April through September daily from 8am to 6:30pm; off-season daily 9am to 5pm. A family ticket sells for 19F ($16/£8.30). Take bus no. 19.

Kids also enjoy the Zytgloggeturm (Clock Tower) and the Bärengraben (Bear Pits). The Naturhistorisches Museum, Bernastrasse 15 (tel. 031/350-71-11; www-nmbe.unibe.ch), with its fascinating reptile collection and gallery of stuffed African beasts, is best for a rainy day, and a picnic at Mount Gurten is a good way to cap any child's visit to Bern.