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Ignore the seedy neighborhood and dour look of the lodge where this upstairs eatery, Venus Inn (217 Bapuji Nagar; tel. 0674/253-1908), is and you'll find a good location for a quick South Indian dosa. Soft Hindi music fills the neat, clean interior as you dine on butter paper masala dosa (crepe-thin filled pancake), the onion rawa masala dosa, a dosa stuffed full of potato, or an uttapam (thicker pancake) with coconut. For the best chicken in town, Cook's Kitchen (260 Bapuji Nagar; [tel 0674/253-0025) is the place to be -- chicken tikka butter masala is for those who can handle their spices. Order an Orissan thali at Swosti Plaza's Chandan (tel. 0674/230-1936 through -1939; www.swostiplaza.com), where waiters can talk you through the evening's selection while old Hindi film music provides prerecorded entertainment. The menu changes daily, but a typical selection might include fragrant dry Oriya mutton (mangsha kasha); Rohu fish (beware of the fine bones) cooked in a mustard sauce (sorisa machha); traditionally prepared mixed vegetables (santula); and soft paneer (Indian cheese) cooked under charcoal and then caramelized (chhena poda) -- all served with breads and condiments on a brass platter.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.