Planning a Trip

Getting There

Big Bend National Park is not really close to anything except the Rio Grande and Mexico. There is no public transportation to or through the park, so to get to the park you'll need a car. Park headquarters is 108 miles southeast of Alpine via Tex. 118, and 69 miles south of Marathon via U.S. 385. From El Paso, 328 miles northwest of the park, take I-10 east 121 miles to exit 140, follow U.S. 90 southeast 99 miles to Alpine, and then turn south on Tex. 118 for 108 miles to park headquarters.

There is train and bus service to Alpine, where the nearest hospital is located. For information, contact the Alpine Chamber of Commerce (tel. 800/561-3712 or 432/837-2326; www.alpinetexas.com).

The nearest commercial airports are Midland International (tel. 432/560-2200; www.flymaf.com), 235 miles north, and Del Rio International Airport (tel. 830/774-8538), about 250 miles southeast. From Midland-Odessa, take I-20 west about 50 miles to exit 80 for Tex. 18, which you follow south about 50 miles to Fort Stockton. There take U.S. 385 south 125 miles through Marathon to park headquarters. From Del Rio, you take U.S. 90 west 175 miles to Marathon, and U.S. 385 south 70 miles to park headquarters.

Visitor Information

For advance information, contact the Superintendent, P.O. Box 129, Big Bend National Park, TX 79834 (tel. 432/477-2251; www.nps.gov/bibe).

Books, maps, and videos are available from the Big Bend Natural History Association (tel. 432/477-2236; www.bigbendbookstore.org). The free park newspaper, The Big Bend Paisano, published seasonally by the National Park Service, is a great source of current information on special programs, suggested hikes, kids' activities, and local facilities, with telephone numbers inside and outside the park.

There are five visitor centers in the park: Panther Junction Visitor Center (open year-round) is centrally located at park headquarters; Persimmon Gap Visitor Center (open year-round) is at the North Entrance to the park on U.S. 385; Rio Grande Village Visitor Center (open Nov-Apr) is on the river in the eastern part of the park; Castolon (open Nov-Apr) is near the river in the southwestern end of the park; and Chisos Basin Visitor Center (open year-round) is in the Chisos Mountains in the middle of the park, at 5,401 feet in elevation. All visitor centers provide information, backcountry permits, books, and maps, and have exhibits; there is an impressive display on mountain lions at Chisos Basin and informative exhibits focusing on the park's cultural history at Castolon. Bulletin boards with schedules of ranger programs, notices of animal sightings, and other information are located at each of the visitor centers.

Fees, Regulations & Permits

Entry into the park for up to a week costs $20 per passenger vehicle, and $5 per person on foot or bicycle. A $10 camping permit, available at any visitor center, is required for all backcountry camping and good for 2 weeks; permits are also required for all river-float trips.

Wood or ground fires are prohibited in the park, and caution is advised when using camp stoves, charcoal grills, and cigarettes. Smoking is prohibited on all trails in the Chisos Basin. Check at the visitor centers for current drought conditions and any restrictions that may be in effect when you visit. Horses are not permitted on any paved roads in the park.

Don't Cross the Rio Grande! -- Increased national security following the September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks has put a stop to the once-popular informal trips to Mexico that many visitors to Big Bend National Park used to make. Although there are no authorized border crossing points within the national park, for years Mexican citizens would use rowboats to ferry park visitors across the Rio Grande to several small Mexican villages, where the Americans could shop and eat genuine Mexican food. But Homeland Security officials have announced that those informal border crossings are no longer permitted, and anyone entering the United States from Mexico in the park is subject to a fine of up to $5,000 and imprisonment of up to 1 year.

When to Go

Weather here is generally mild to hot, although because of the vast range of elevations -- from about 1,800 feet at the eastern end of Boquillas Canyon to 7,825 feet on Emory Peak in the Chisos Mountains -- conditions can vary greatly throughout the park at any given time. Essentially, the higher you go, the cooler and wetter you can expect it to be, although no section of the park gets a lot of precipitation.

Summers are hot, often well over 100°F (38°C) in the desert in May and June, and afternoon thunderstorms are common July through September. Winters are usually mild, although temperatures occasionally drop below freezing, and light snow is possible, especially in the Chisos Mountains. Fall and spring are usually warm and pleasant.

Average annual visitation is just over 300,000. Although the park is relatively uncrowded much of the year, there are several periods when lodging and campgrounds are full: college spring break (usually the second and third week in Mar), Easter weekend, Thanksgiving weekend, and the week between Christmas and New Year's Day. Park visitation is generally highest in March and April, and lowest in August and September.

Although the park's visitor centers, campgrounds, and other developed facilities may be taxed during the busy season, visitors can still be practically alone simply by seeking out lesser-used hiking trails. Those seeking solitude should discuss their hiking skills and expectations with rangers, who can offer suggestions on the best areas to escape the crowds.

Safety

Watch for wild animals along the roads, especially at night, when they may be blinded by your vehicle's headlights and stunned into standing still in the middle of the road. Feeding wildlife is strictly prohibited -- not only to minimize the risk of injuries to park visitors but also because it's bad for the animals.

The Basin Road Scenic Drive into the Chisos Mountains has sharp curves and steep grades and is not recommended for trailers longer than 20 feet or motor homes longer than 24 feet. The Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to Castolon is fine for most RVs and trailers but might present a problem for those with insufficient power to handle the steep grade. These roads require extra caution by all users -- drivers of motor vehicles, pedestrians, and bicyclists alike.

Desert heat can be dangerous. Hikers should carry at least 1 gallon of water per person per day; wear a hat, long pants, and long sleeves; and use a good sunscreen. Don't depend on springs as water sources, and avoid hiking in the middle of the day in summer. Early mornings and evenings are best. Talk to rangers about your plans before heading out; they can help you plan a hike in accordance with your ability and time frame. They can also advise you on expected weather conditions -- sudden summer thunderstorms are common and can cause flash flooding in usually dry washes and canyons.

Swimming is not recommended in the Rio Grande, even though it may look tantalizingly inviting on a hot summer day. Waste materials and waterborne microorganisms have been found in the river and can cause serious illness. Also, strong undercurrents, deep holes, and sharp rocks in shallow water are common.

Ranger Programs & Special Events

Park ranger naturalists offer a variety of programs year-round. Illustrated evening programs take place at the 5,400-foot Chisos Basin amphitheater year-round. From November to April, evening programs are offered regularly in the amphitheater at Rio Grande Village and occasionally at Cottonwood Campground. Subjects include the park's geology, plants, animals, and human history. I especially like the ranger-led nature walks, and rangers also occasionally lead driving tours. Workshops are also planned, on subjects such as adobe construction or photography. Look for weekly schedules on the bulletin boards scattered about the park. Personal ranger-guided tours are also available for $35 an hour with a 4-hour minimum. Call tel. 432/477-1108 for reservations or to check on availability.

The park has a Junior Ranger Program for children of all ages. Kids learn about the park through a variety of activities, and earn stickers, certificates, badges, and patches. Pick up Junior Ranger Activity Books ($2) at any visitor center.

The Big Bend Natural History Association offers a variety of seminars. Cost is about $100 per day and most seminars are for 1 or 2 days. Subjects could include black bears, archaeology, bats, birds, cactuses, photography, and wildflowers.