Nightlife here is legendary in Turkey, causing people's eyes to glaze over longingly whenever you mention Bodrum. The games begin behind the castle along Dr. Alim Bey Caddesi, a narrow health hazard full of crowds working their way past bars, eateries, clothing shops, and booths where you can get an exaggeratedly garish temporary tattoo. This overcrowded stretch disgorges its human contents at Cumhuriyet Caddesi, the broad walkway along the Outer Harbor thick with outdoor cafes, bars, loud music, and groups of young party-seekers conferring on where to begin. But there's a sophisticated side to Bodrum, if you know where to look. With St. Peter's Castle practically illuminating the entire bay, it's just a matter of choosing your own front seat. Several of the hotels listed above (Manastir, Mavi, Antique Theatre, Marina Vista) take advantage of perfectly sited terraces or rooftops. If you're feeling ambitious, drive out to the village of Gümüslük for an extremely romantic seafood dinner.