On Piazza del Nettuno (adjacent to Piazza Maggiore) stands the Neptune Fountain (Fontana di Nettuno) [STST], which has gradually become a symbol of the city, although it was designed in 1566 by a Frenchman named Giambologna (the Italians altered his name). Viewed as irreverent by some, "indecent" by the Catholic Church, and magnificent by those with more liberal tastes, this 16th-century fountain depicts Neptune with rippling muscles, a trident in one arm, and a heavy foot on the head of a dolphin. The church forced Giambologna to manipulate Neptune's left arm to cover his monumental endowment. Giambologna's defenders denounced this as "artistic castration." Around his feet are four highly erotic cherubs, also with dolphins. At the base of the fountain, four very sensual sirens spout streams of water from their breasts.
Reserving Winery Tours -- Emilia's most famous wine is Lambrusco, 50 million bottles of which are produced every year near Modena and Reggio Emilia. Less well known but also highly rated are the Colli Piacentini wines, one of the rising stars for which is Cantine Romagnoli, Via Genova 20, Villò di Vigolzone 29020 (tel. 0523-870129; www.cantineromagnoli.it). If you'd like to venture out into the countryside, you should call ahead and make an appointment for a tour and tasting, and get directions.
