Because Bologna has a large population of students, it has a vibrant, diverse nightlife scene, including lots of cafes that are packed with a young crowd. The Via del Pratello and, near the university, Via Zamboni and Via delle Belle Arte and their surrounding areas are the usual haunts of night owls. You can usually find a place for a drink, a shot of espresso, or a light meal as late as 2am.
Facing the Duomo is Bar Giuseppe, Piazza Maggiore 1 (tel. 051-264444), serving some of the best espresso and gelato in town. It stretches for at least a block beneath the arcades facing the Piazza Maggiore. The best dry martinis in town are served at Nu Lounge Bar, 6 Via de'Musei (tel. 051-222532), attracting a post-30 crowd of fashionistas last seen munching on those addictive Calabrian green olives.
At 10:30pm, make your way to the cellars of a 16th-century palazzo near the university at Cantina Bentivoglio at Via Mascarella 4B (tel. 051-265416). That's when you'll hear some of the best jazz in Bologna. It is open daily from 8pm to 2am. It is also open for lunch Monday to Friday from 12:15 to 2:45pm.
Cassero, Via Don Minzoni 18 (tel. 051-6494416), is Bologna's most popular gay bar, with a noisy, discolike atmosphere and floor shows. The biggest attraction here is the setting -- the club occupies one of Bologna's medieval gates, the top of which serves as a roof garden and open-air dance floor in good weather. Cassero is also the Bologna headquarters of Arcigay and Arcilesbiche, a gay and lesbian center organizing cultural meetings and entertainment. Thursday is set aside for women, on Friday theatrical performances of interest to the gay and lesbian community take place, and on Sunday disco fever takes over (events vary widely and are scheduled at different times).
Osteria de Poeti, Via Poeti 1B (tel. 051-236166), is Bologna's oldest osteria and has been in operation since the 16th century. The brick-vaulted ceilings, stone walls, and ancient wine barrels provide just the sort of ambience you would expect to find in such a historic establishment. Stop in to enjoy the live jazz and folk music that's on tap most nights. Closed Monday.
During July and August, the city authorities transform the parks along the town's northern tier into an Italian version of a German biergarten (beer garden), complete with disco music under colored lights. Vendors sell beer and wine from indoor/outdoor bars set up on the lawns, and others hawk food and souvenirs. Events range from live jazz to classical concerts. Ask any hotelier or the tourist office for the schedule of midsummer events, or try your luck by taking either a taxi or (much less convenient) bus no. 25, 35, or 38 from the main station to Arena Parco Nord.
The Teatro Comunale, Largo Respighi 1 (tel. 199-107070), is the venue for major cultural presentations, including opera, ballet, and orchestral presentations. During the 1970s, Luciano Pavarotti traveled from his home in Modena to perform operas at this 1763 landmark.
Music lovers flock to the Sala Mozart at the Accademia Filarmonica di Bologna, Via Guerrazzi 13 (tel. 051-222997; www.accademiafilarmonica.it), to hear performances by Haydn, Brahms, Vivaldi, and, of course, Mozart himself. The boy genius was only 14 years old when he earned a diploma in composition at this academy in 1770.
Cantina Bentivoglio, Via Mascarella 4B (tel. 051-265416), off Via delle Belle Arti, is a fairly upmarket joint that serves reasonably priced food and wine and hosts great live jazz. There is no cover.
