Zaftigs Delicatessen

The magical phrase "breakfast served all day" might be enough to lure you to this bustling restaurant, but even breakfast haters will be happy at Zaftigs. The name, Yiddish for "pleasingly plump," is no joke -- portions are more than generous. Try fluffy pancakes, challah French toast, or a terrific omelet. They share the menu with wonderful overstuffed deli sandwiches as well as entrees that seem basic but demonstrate a certain flair. Roasted chicken is juicy and flavorful, meatloaf and gravy equally enjoyable. The knock on Boston-area deli food is that it's not New York (well, duh), but the deli items here are more than acceptable. The gefilte fish is light, citrus twinkles in the blintz filling, and -- the true test -- the chicken soup is excellent. Weekend lunch here is comically crowded; be early or late, or expect to wait a while.

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