Bratislava, as a modern European capital, has everything you might want or need. In terms of souvenirs, there are a couple of unique shops worth visiting. Antikvariát Steiner, Ventúrska ul. 9 (tel. 02/5443-3778), is an antiquarian bookshop with a wonderful selection of old maps and prints, as well beautiful books (most in Slovak and German). If you're looking for more traditional folk art, including textiles, lace, and ceramics, try Ú?uv, with locations at Obchodná ul. 64 and nám. SNP 12 (tel. 02/5273-1344; www.uluv.sk). Interpress, Sedlárska 2 (no phone), carries a nice range of English-language newspapers and magazines.

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