Getting Around

By Plane

Though there are highways and buses, the sheer vastness of Brazil (and the absence of rail travel) makes air travel the only viable option for those who want to visit a variety of cities and regions. Thanks to a recent increase in competition from domestic no-frills carrier Gol, the regular fares on the main domestic carriers have come down quite a bit. For those traveling larger distances in Brazil there is also the option of purchasing an air pass (much to the envy of Brazilians this pass is available to foreigners only). Tam and Varig both offer air passes (see below for details). Prices, number of flights, and destinations vary a little but both air passes offer a number of flights over a set time period. Air passes need to be purchased and booked outside of Brazil. Only limited changes are allowed once you arrive in the country. Also, it's a good idea to research the small print before choosing your pass. Often flights between Rio and São Paulo's downtown airports are excluded (meaning you have to use the international airports) and the pass does not allow returns on the same stretch.

Varig (tel. 0800/997-000 in Brazil; www.varig.com.br) and TAM (tel. 0800/123-100 in Brazil; www.tam.com.br) both offer four segments for US$445, with the option of a fifth leg for another US$100. The pass is valid for 21 days. There are very few differences between the two passes. However, we find that TAM offers more punctual connections and better customer service. Check TAM's special English-language site for more details on the air pass, www.tamairlines.com. If you're traveling to only one or two destinations within Brazil, it can be cheaper to skip the air pass and buy a separate ticket. You can check the prices with Varig or TAM for their domestic routes on their respective websites, or fly instead with discount airline Gol (tel. 0300/789-2121 in Brazil; www.voegol.com.br). This airline has modeled itself after American discount carriers like Southwest Airlines -- quick bookings online and no-frills flights between popular destinations such as Rio, São Paulo, Salvador, Recife, Fortaleza, Manaus, Belém, Campo Grande, and Brasilia. Tickets can be purchased at the airport or on the Internet (see note below). The company flies brand-new Boeing 737s and provides friendly and efficient service.

Note: Gol now has an English website and you can purchase your ticket online with an American Express card only. Within Brazil, at the Gol ticket office, you can pay with other credit cards as well.

By Bus

Bus travel in Brazil is comfortable, efficient, and affordable. The only problem is, it's a long way from anywhere to anywhere else. Tickets can be purchased ahead of time with reserved seats. All buses are nonsmoking, and in most cases people adhere to the regulations. On many popular routes travelers can opt for a deluxe coach with air-conditioning and leito (seats that recline almost flat).

By Car

Car rentals are expensive, and the distances are huge. From Recife to Brasilia is 2,121km (1,315 miles); Salvador to Rio is a 1,800km (1,116-mile) drive. Within Brazilian cities, renting a car is only for the bold and foolish: Drivers are aggressive, rules sporadically applied, and parking a competitive sport. That said, there are occasions -- a side trip to the mountain resorts of Rio, a visit to the historic towns of Minas Gerais, or a drive to the Chapada dos Guimarães outside of Cuiabá -- where a car makes sense. Contact numbers for rental companies are given in each chapter.

Each company normally has a national rate, and only rarely are there local discounts or special offers. For a tiny car (a Fiat Palio or Gol) with air-conditioning, you can typically expect to pay around R$70 (US$29) per day plus R$.55 (US25¢) per kilometer or R$110 (US$46) per day with unlimited mileage. Add to that another R$30 (US$13) per day for comprehensive insurance. Gasoline costs R$2.80 (US$1.20) per liter, about US$4.50/gallon. Officially you need an international driver's license but we have never encountered any problems having a U.S., Canadian, or European license. To obtain an international license, contact your local automobile association. While expensive, the comprehensive insurance is probably a good idea as Brazilian drivers are not as gentle with their cars as folks in North America. Bumpers are meant to be used, Brazilians believe, and if a bit of nudging is required to get into that parking spot, so be it. Note that Embratur warns travelers to avoid the cheaper local car-rental companies, which sometimes skip on the requisite insurance and maintenance.