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Most Cape towns can still boast a windmill or two, and a few of them still function. This model is inactive but especially handsome. Built in 1795 in the "smock" style that can be traced back to Colonial days, it has an unusual cap shaped like a boat's hull. A few steps away is a classic half-Cape house, built that same year, consisting of one square room, 16 feet to a side. Here one of the poorer members of the community -- a blacksmith who doubled as barber -- lived simply, yet apparently happily, with his wife and 10 children.