Side Trips

The Brisbane River runs into Moreton Bay, which is studded with hundreds of small islands -- and a few large ones. Some of them can be reached only by private vessel. Others are national parks and are accessible by tour boat or public ferry.

North Stradbroke Island

Affectionately called "Straddie" by the locals, the island was once home to a large Aboriginal population and still retains much of their history. The town of Dunwich was used as a convict outstation, Catholic mission, quarantine station, and benevolent institution. The historical museum at Dunwich (tel. 07/3409 9699) has a display of historical photographs, items salvaged from shipwrecks, and information about the early settlement of the island; it's open from 10am to 2pm Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. Entry costs A$3.30 (US$2.65/UK£1.30) adults and A$1.10 (US90¢/UK45p) children. Pick up a booklet which will guide you along a heritage trail which features 30 points of interest at Dunwich, Amity, and Lookout Point, as well as detailing the history of the Dunwich Cemetery. The booklet is available at visitor centers on the mainland and at Dunwich, at the museum and at tourist attractions on the island. Another "must" for visitors is the North Gorge Headlands Walk, for breathtaking views and for spotting turtles, dolphins, and whales.

Getting There & Getting Around -- Stradbroke Ferries (tel. 07/3286 2666) operates water-taxi service from Toondah Harbour, Middle Street, Cleveland, to Dunwich (about 30 min.); the round-trip adult fare is A$17 (US$14/UK£6.80), A$10 (US$8/UK£4) for children 5 to 14. The vehicle barge takes walk-on passengers for A$11 (US$8.80/UK£4.40) round-trip; the trip takes about 45 minutes. A bus meets almost every water taxi or ferry at Dunwich and connects it with the other two main settlements, Amity and Point Lookout. The trip to either place takes about 30 minutes and costs A$9.50 (US$7.60/UK£3.80) round-trip for adults, A$5 (US$4/UK£2) for children 5 to 14.

To get to Cleveland by public transport from Brisbane, take the train from Central Station to Cleveland Station (A$4.20/US$3.35/UK£1.70), then walk about 300m (1/2 mile) to Middle Street or take a bus from the station to the ferry terminal, which costs A$2 (US$1.60/UK80p).

Visitor Information -- The Stradbroke Island Tourism information center (tel. 07/3409 9555) is on Junner Street, Dunwich, about 200m (656 ft.) from the ferry terminal. It is open weekdays from 8:30am to 5pm and weekends 9am to 4pm.

South Stradbroke Island

A turn-of-the-20th-century shipwreck (with a cargo of whiskey and explosives) weakened the link between this lovely island and North Stradbroke, and nature did the rest. South Stradbroke is less well known than its sister island, but that's changing. The island has four camping grounds and three resorts. South Stradbroke Island is accessible from Hope Harbour, about a 45-minute drive south of Brisbane.

Getting There & Getting Around -- From Brisbane, take the Pacific Highway exit after Dreamworld (exit 57), and follow signs to Hope Harbour and to the departure terminal for the island. The resorts run boats for guests only; the only other way to get there is by water taxi. Gold Coast Water Taxi (tel. 0418 759 789) takes groups to the island for A$150 (US$120/UK£60) per transfer (10 people with no luggage, or six people plus camping gear). Couran Cove Island Resort (tel. 1800/268 726 or 07/5597 9995; www.couran.com) runs day tours. Prices start at A$65 (US$52/UK£26) adults, A$35 (US$28/UK£14) children or A$175 (US$140/UK£70) for a family of four, which includes return transfers from Hope Harbour, lunch, and use of resort facilities. The Fastcat ferry leaves Hope Harbour at 10:30am, and you can return on the 3, 5, or 7pm boat.

Moreton Island

At more than 200 sq. km (78 sq. miles), Moreton is the second-largest sand mass in the world (after Queensland's Fraser Island) and has the world's largest sand hill, Mount Tempest. It's home to three settlements and the Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort, where guests and visitors on an extended day cruise can take part in hand-feeding a pod of wild dolphins that comes to the jetty each evening. Moreton has other attractions: You can visit the 42-hectare (104-acre) "desert" and toboggan down the sand dunes, snorkel around the 12 wrecks just north of the resort, and visit historical points of interest, including the sandstone lighthouse at Cape Moreton, built in 1857. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is essential for getting around, but the resort runs tours. Permits for access (A$34/US$27/UK£14 per vehicle) and camping (A$4.50/US$3.60/UK£1.80 per person or A$18/US$14/UK£7 for a family) are available from national park rangers and ferry operators.

Getting There & Getting Around -- High-speed catamarans (tel. 1300/652 250 in Australia, or 07/3268 6333) leave Brisbane's Pinkenba wharf at Eagle Farm for Tangalooma on Moreton Island three times daily, at 8am, 10am, and 5pm (1pm on Mon, Sat, and Sun). The trip takes 75 minutes. For a A$5 (US$4/UK£2) charge, coaches pick up passengers at the Roma Street Transit Centre to connect with the launch, and will pick up from city hotels on request. Return transfers leave Tangalooma at 9am and 4pm and after the evening dolphin feeding session at 7pm every day. On weekends and Mondays, they also leave at 2pm. The day trip return fare is A$40 (US$32/UK£16) for adults and A$25 (US$20/UK£10) for children 3 to 14 or A$100 (US$80/UK£40) for a family of four (extra child A$10/US$8/UK£4). The Combie Trader vehicular and passenger ferry (tel. 07/3203 6399; www.moreton-island.com) departs from Scarborough on the Redcliffe Peninsula for Bulwer Wednesday through Monday. The trip takes about 2 hours; round-trip fares for walk-on passengers are A$40 (US$32/UK£16) adults, A$35 (US$28/UK£14) students over 15, and A$25 (US$20/UK£10) children 5 to 15. The cost to take a four-wheel-drive and two passengers is A$185 (US$148/UK£74). Day trips operate on Saturday (8am-3:30pm) and cost A$30 (US$24/UK£12) adults, A$20 (US$16/UK£8) children, and A$105 (US$84/UK£42) family of four. Combie Trader also runs four-wheel-drive trips to the island on Monday, Saturday, and Sunday. The cost -- A$85 (US$68/UK£34) adults and A$60 (US$48/UK£24) children under 14 -- includes the ferry crossing, full day tour, and lunch. Times are subject to change.

To reach Scarborough by public transit from Brisbane, take bus no. 315 (Redcliffe Express) from stop 59, on Queen Street near Creek Street, to Scarborough North and walk about 500m (1/2 mile). The fare is A$4.40 (US$3.50/UK£1.75) for adults, half price for children. The trip takes 60 to 90 minutes.

St. Helena Island

For 65 years, from 1867 to 1932, St. Helena was a prison island, known as "the hell hole of the Pacific" to the nearly 4,000 souls incarcerated there. Today, the prison ruins are a tourist attraction, with a small museum in the restored and reconstructed Deputy Superintendent's Cottage.

Getting There & Getting Around -- Entry to the island is by guided tour only. Excellent tours, most involving a reenactment of life on the island jail, are run by AB Sea Cruises (tel. 07/3893 1240; 8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Sat) on the launch Cat-o-Nine-Tails, leaving from Manly Boat Harbour. The cost is A$69 (US$55/UK£28) adults, A$59 (US$47/UK£24) seniors and students, A$39 (US$31/UK£16) children aged 17 and under. Tours operate on Wednesdays, leaving at 9:15am and returning at 2:15pm, and on Sundays leaving at 10am and returning at 3pm. The price includes a box lunch. St. Helena By Night Ghost Tours run from Manly Boat Harbour on Saturday nights. They include dinner, a dramatized version of life in the prison, and a few spooky surprises. Night tours leave at 7pm and return at 11:15pm; they cost A$85 (US$68/UK£34) adults, A$80 (US$64/UK£32) seniors and students, and A$44 (US$35/UK£18) children. Reservations are essential.

To reach Manly Boat Harbour from Brisbane, take the train from Central Station to Manly (A$3.40/US$2.70/UK£1.35) and walk about 100m (328 ft.). The trip takes about 50 minutes.