Getting Around

B.C. in particular has an admirable public transportation system, and it would be possible to see most of the sites covered by this guide by linking buses, trains, and ferries -- actually a very pleasant prospect. However, having your own wheels will increase your options.

By Plane

It's actually cheaper now to fly between Canadian cities than take the bus or train, as deregulation has resulted in a number of excellent new airlines that offer no-frills but perfectly comfortable air travel. These airlines rely on the Internet to create savings in booking flights and other information gathering, so you'll want Internet access to learn about these flights. WestJet (tel. 888/937-8538; www.westjet.com) offers the largest service area, with flights spanning the country from Victoria to St. John's.

In addition to Air Canada flights between major western Canadian cities, the regional Air Canada Jazz (tel. 888/247-2262; www.flyjazz.ca) flies to smaller centers. Regularly scheduled floatplane service links Victoria and Vancouver harbors, and many island communities in the Strait of Georgia.

By Car

Canadian highways are well maintained, and most are open year-round. For instance, Hwy. 1, which links Vancouver to Calgary, and the Icefields Parkway, which links Lake Louise and Jasper, are both open all winter long. Even though Canada is a major oil producer, you'll find that gasoline there is generally more expensive than in the U.S.

Driving Rules -- Wearing seat belts is compulsory for all passengers. Children under 5 must be in child restraints. Motorcyclists must wear helmets. In British Columbia and Alberta, it's legal to turn right at a red light after you've come to a full stop. Pedestrians have the right of way. The speed limit on express routes (limited-access highways) ranges from 62 to 68 mph (100-110kmph). Drivers must carry proof of insurance at all times.

By Train

In addition to the transcontinental VIA Rail, Vancouver Island offers the Malahat, a passenger train that makes a daily run between Victoria and Courtenay. This is a rather charming way to progress up and down the eastern shores of Vancouver Island, and it's easy to link to ferries to make loop trips along the B.C. coast. Another marvelous B.C. route is the Skeena, which links Prince Rupert on the Pacific with Jasper, in the Canadian Rockies. For information on both, contact VIA Rail (tel. 888/VIA-RAIL [842-7245]; www.viarail.ca).

By Bus

While many Americans may not relish the option of traveling by bus while in Canada, in fact Greyhound Canada (tel. 800/661-8747; www.greyhound.ca) offers far superior service and coverage than does Greyhound in the U.S. Not only are the buses newer and cleaner, and the bus stations better kept up than in the U.S., but Greyhound is also often the only option for land transport in many parts of Canada due to the relatively minimal coverage by VIA Rail.

Greyhound and its affiliates provide the primary transportation infrastructure among communities in British Columbia. On Vancouver Island, a number of private carriers also offer services, particularly on the run between Victoria and Tofino.

In the Canadian Rockies, Brewster Transportation (tel. 866/606-6700 or 403/762-6700) offers bus transport among Calgary, Banff, and Jasper in addition to running tours.

By Boat

BC Ferries (tel. 888/223-3779 or 250/386-3431; www.bcferries.com) operates an extensive car and passenger ferry network along the British Columbia coast. These ferries link the B.C. mainland to Vancouver Island, and also provide service to dozens of smaller island communities. Also notable is the Inland Passage route, which links Port Hardy on the northern tip of Vancouver Island with Prince Rupert, just south of the Alaska Panhandle. This service can be joined with other public transport options to make a really great loop around B.C.