Attractions

Brussels has such a variety of things to see and do that it can sometimes be overwhelming. There are more than 75 museums dedicated to just about every special interest under the sun, in addition to impressive public buildings, leafy parks, and interesting squares. History is just around every corner. Fortunately, numerous sidewalk cafes offer respite for weary feet, and there's good public transportation to those attractions beyond walking distance of the compact, heart-shaped center city, which contains many of Brussels's most popular attractions.

Free Culture -- Be sure to take advantage of the free admission some museums offer on the first Wednesday afternoon of every month.

The Lost River -- Believe it or not, Brussels is constructed on a river called the Senne. In the 19th century, the City Fathers had it covered up, but traces of the missing river can still be seen at courtyards off place St-Géry in the Lower Town.

Underground Art -- Most of Brussels's Métro stations have been decorated with works of art -- a painting, sculpture, mosaic, or installation -- by leading Belgian modern artists. Taken together, they form an underground museum that you can tour for the price of a Métro ticket. Among interesting Métro stations are: Bourse, in the center city, which has a mural of old Brussels trams by the surrealist painter Paul Delvaux; Stockel, the eastern terminus of line 1B, where the walls are decorated with strips from the comic series Tintin, which was created by local hero Hergé; and Horta, south of Gare du Midi, which pays homage to Brussels's Art Nouveau architect Victor Horta, by way of elements from some of the buildings and interiors he designed.

Heritage Days -- On the third weekend in September, the annual Brussels Heritage Days program allows you to visit some of the finest buildings in town that are usually closed to visitors. Sixty or so sites are open. For more details, visit the Information Center, Halles St-Géry, place St-Géry (tel. 0800/40-400; Métro: Bourse), open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm (admission is free).

The European District

Home to the European Commission, European Parliament, Council of Ministers, and related institutions, Brussels has no less than 1.2 million sq. m (12.7 million sq. ft.) of office space packed with 20,000-plus Eurocrats to back up its "capital of Europe" tag. Entire neighborhoods full of character were swept away to make room for them.

To tour the heartland of European Union governance, take the Métro to Schuman station. If you wish to view that exotic species, the European civil servant, in its native habitat, you'll want to do this tour Monday to Friday. The district is dead during the weekend. Grab a bite to eat in one of the fancy restaurants favored by the Euro-crowd or a drink in one of the Irish bars that speckle the district. When you're done, head for the Schuman or Maelbeek Métro stations for the fast track back to civilization.

Your first sight is the X-shaped Palais de Berlaymont (Berlaymont Palace), the commission's former headquarters, at Rond-Point Schuman. Across rue de la Loi, the Council of Ministers headquarters, the Consilium, is instantly recognizable for its facade's lavish complement of rose-colored granite blocks. On its far side, a soothing stroll through little Parc Léopold brings you to the postmodern European Parliament and International Conference Center, an architectural odyssey in white marble and tinted glass. Take the passageway through the building's middle to place Léopold, an old square that looks lost and forlorn in comparison to its powerful new neighbors.