Best Hotel Bets

Métropole (Brussels; tel. 02/217-23-00): This century-old hotel in the heart of Brussels maintains the Belle Epoque splendor of its first days and combines it with modern furnishings and service. Its L'Alban Chambon restaurant is one of Brussels's best.

Welcome (Brussels; tel. 02/219-95-46): This is the best little hotel in Brussels. With only 17 rooms, it's small, but the welcome's a big one, and the standard of the rooms is high. Try to get Michel to tell you about his hotel's history, preferably over a glass or two of Kwak beer -- but be careful: It's a long story and Kwak is strong beer.