Comme Chez Soi (Brussels; tel. 02/512-29-21): If Michelin were to introduce a four-star category, Comme Chez Soi would undoubtedly be one of the first to collect the extra star. The irony about this culinary holy-of-holies is its name: "Just Like Home." I definitely don't eat like this in my home, but perhaps this is standard fare at owner and master chef Pierre Wynants's place. A hallowed silence descends on diners as they sample their first mouthful of his French specialties with added Belgian zest. This being Belgium, the silence doesn't last long, but the taste and the memory linger.
In 't Spinnekopke (Brussels; tel. 02/511-86-95): For a different kind of Brussels dining experience, try this down-home restaurant dating from 1762. Here, traditional Belgian dishes are given the care and attention expected of more refined -- though not necessarily more tasty -- cuisine.
't Kelderke (Brussels; tel. 02/513-73-44): Although it's just about hidden from human ken, this traditional restaurant turns out to occupy a position that easily could be considered the best in town. It's in a downstairs brick-arched cellar on the Grand-Place. Convivial and cozy, it makes few concessions to this ultimate tourist location, but serves up fine Belgian fare and sticks firmly to its Bruxellois roots.
La Quincaillerie (Brussels; tel. 02/533-98-33): Should there be a criticism to make here -- and it's far from being an onerous one -- this fine restaurant in a beautifully converted hardware store is maybe just a little too taken by its own good looks and fancy attitude, and doesn't neglect to include a consideration for these on the tab. That said, it still seems like value for money, because the food is ace and the setting memorable.
