Getting Around

Brussels's center city is small enough that walking is a viable option. There's no better way to explore the historical core, especially around Grand-Place. You'll likely also enjoy strolling uptown around place du Grand Sablon. Yet city traffic can be both heavy and frantic, creating a tiring experience for strollers. The best solution, if you have several days, is to divide your time into walking tours. Otherwise, a combination of walking and using the excellent public transportation is best. In any case, beyond the center city, using public transportation is a necessity.

Be careful when crossing roads at the black-and-white pedestrian crossings with no signals. Astonishingly, pedestrians at these crossings haven't always had legal priority over cars! Watch out for cars turning (legally) right or left at traffic lights, even when the green "walking man" indicates you are allowed to cross.

By Public Transportation

Maps of the city's excellent, fully integrated transit network -- Métro (subway), tram (streetcar), and bus -- are available free from the city tourist office, from offices of the STIB public transportation company at Galérie de la Toison d'Or 15 (tel. 070/23-20-00; www.stib.be; Métro: Louise), and from the Porte de Namur, Rogier, and Gare du Midi Métro stations. In addition, transit maps are posted at all Métro stations and on many bus and tram shelters. The full network operates from 6am to midnight, after which a limited night-bus network takes over. If possible, avoid the crush at morning and evening rush hours. Watch out for pickpockets, especially at busy times, and avoid walking alone in deserted access tunnels, particularly after dark -- the risk of being mugged is small but not entirely absent.

Fare Information & Discount Passes -- Tickets for a 1-ride JUMP ticket (JUMP is the name for a Brussels transit ticket) are 2€ ($3.20) when purchased onboard, and 1.70€ ($2.70) when purchased before boarding. It costs 7€ ($11) for a 5-ride JUMP ticket, 12€ ($18) for a 10-ride JUMP ticket, 4.50€ ($7) for a 1-day JUMP ticket, and 9.50€ ($15) for a 3-day ticket. The 5-ride, 10-ride, and 1-day tickets cannot be purchased onboard trams or buses of the STIB city transit authority, but only from sales points and automats; they can, however, be purchased onboard buses of the regional transit companies De Lijn and TEC that have stops inside the city limits; the 3-day ticket can only be used with STIB and must be purchased before boarding. Finally, whatever ticket you want, if you plan to use it on Métro trains you must purchase it before boarding. There are several multiday options. Children ages 6 to 11 ride free on the STIB transit network; they need to get a free pass called an Abonnement J. A maximum of four children 5 and under can ride free per paying adult.

Validation -- You validate your card by inserting it into the orange electronic machines inside buses and trams and at the access to Métro platforms. Though the card must be revalidated each time you enter a new vehicle, you're allowed multiple transfers within a 1-hour period of the initial validation, so you can hop on and off Métros, trams, and buses during that time, and only one journey will be canceled by the electronic scanner. If more than one person is traveling on one card, the card must be validated each time for each traveler.

By Metro -- The Métro is quick and efficient, and covers many important center-city locations, and the suburbs, the Bruparck recreation zone, and the Heysel congress center. Stations are identified by signs with a white M on a blue background. A trip underground takes you into an art center -- Métro stations are decorated with specially commissioned paintings by contemporary Belgian artists.

By Tram & Bus -- An extensive network of tram lines provides the ideal way to get around the city. Both trams and urban buses are yellow. Their stops are marked with red-and-white signs and often have a shelter. You stop a tram or bus by extending your arm as it approaches so the driver can see it; if you don't signal, the bus or tram might not stop. Two bus companies provide service to points outside the city (and stop at some points within it): TEC (tel. 010/23-53-53; www.infotec.be), which provides yellow buses covering French-speaking Wallonia, and De Lijn (tel. 070/22-02-00; www.delijn.be), which has white buses covering Dutch-speaking Flanders.

Though not as fast as the Métro, trams are generally faster than buses and are a great way to get around, not least because you get to view the cityscape while you ride. Line nos. 92 and 94 pass by key sights along rue Royale and rue de la Régence, and as far as avenue Louise.

By Taxi

Taxi fares start at 2.40€ ($3.85) daily from 6am to 10pm, and at 4.40€ ($7.05) between 10pm and 6am, increasing by 1.35€ ($2.15) per kilometer inside the city (tariff 1) and 2.70€ ($4.30) per kilometer outside (tariff 2) -- make sure the meter is set to the correct tariff. Tip and taxes are included on the meter price, and you need not add an extra tip unless there has been extra service, such as help with heavy luggage (though drivers won't refuse tips). All taxis are metered. They cannot be hailed on the street, but there are taxi stands on many principal streets, particularly in the center city, and at rail stations. To request a cab by phone, call Taxis Bleus (tel. 02/268-00-00), Taxis Oranges (tel. 02/349-43-43), or Taxis Verts (tel. 02/349-49-49).

By Car

Driving in Brussels is akin to life during the Stone Age: nasty and brutish -- though it's rarely short. Normally polite citizens of Brussels turn into red-eyed demons once they get behind the steering wheel. Driving is fast, except at rush hour, and always aggressive. At rush hour (which actually lasts about an hour to either side of 9am and 5pm), it is almost impossible to move on main roads inside the city and on the R0 outer ring road (beltway). Sunday and early morning are better, and evening is not too bad.

Park your car either at your hotel or in one of the many public parking garages -- your hotel can furnish the address of the nearest one -- and do not set foot in it again until you're ready to leave the city. Good public transportation and an occasional taxi ride will get you anywhere you want inexpensively and hassle-free.

If you must drive, watch out for the notorious priorité de droite (priority from the right) traffic system.