The Performing Arts

Opera & Ballet

An opera house in the grand style, the Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie, place de la Monnaie (tel. 02/229-12-11; www.lamonnaie.be; Métro: De Brouckère), founded in the 17th century, is home to the Opéra National and l'Orchestre Symphonique de la Monnaie. Belgium's 1830 war of independence broke out during a performance at this graceful neoclassical theater -- so you never can tell what an evening at the opera has in store. Ballet performances are also presented here. The resident modern-dance company, Anne Theresa de Keersmaeker's Group Rosas, is noted for its original moves.

Classical Music

Bozar, rue Ravenstein 23 (tel. 02/507-82-00; Métro: Gare Centrale) -- formerly the elegantly named Palais des Beaux-Arts until some bright spark came up with the idea of trendifying it -- is home to Belgium's National Orchestra. Concerts are also performed at the Cirque Royal, rue de l'Enseignement 81 (tel. 02/218-20-15; Métro: Parc), which was formerly a real circus but is now a venue for music, opera, and ballet; and at Le Botanique, rue Royale 236 (tel. 02/218-37-32; Métro: Botanique), which generally focuses on small-scale modern and avant-garde performances, not only of classical music but also of jazz and other forms.

Theaters

Brussels theater is quite important among French-speaking countries, with more than 30 theaters presenting performances in French, Flemish, and (occasionally) English. Among the most important are the Théâtre Royal du Parc, rue de la Loi 3 (tel. 02/505-30-30; www.theatreduparc.be; Métro: Parc), for classic and contemporary drama and comedies; Théâtre Royal des Galeries, Galerie du Roi 32 (tel. 02/512-04-07), with a wide variety of offerings, including drama, comedy, and musicals; the Art Deco-style Théâtre du Résidence Palace, rue de la Loi 155 (tel. 02/231-03-05); Le Botanique, rue Royale 236 (tel. 02/218-37-32), which inclines toward the experimental in mostly French theater; and the Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwburg, Delaunoystraat 58, 1080 Brussels (tel. 02/412-70-70), a neo-Renaissance-style building dating from 1887 that brings the world's theatrical highlights to the city in Dutch.

Puppet Shows: A Belgian Passion

A special word is in order about a special sort of theater -- that of the wooden marionettes that have entertained Belgians for centuries. In times past, puppet theaters numbered in the hundreds nationwide (Brussels alone had 15), and the plays were much like our modern-day soap operas. The story lines went on and on, sometimes for generations, and working-class audiences returned night after night to keep up with the Dallas of the times. Performances were based on folklore, legends, or political satire.

Specific marionette characters came to personify their home cities: a cheeky ragamuffin named Woltje (Little Walloon) was from Brussels; Antwerp had the cross-eyed, earthy ne'er-do-well Schele; Pierke, from Ghent, was modeled on the traditional Italian clown; and Liège's Tchantchès stood only 41 centimeters (16 in.) high and always appeared with patched trousers, a tasseled floppy hat, and his constant companion, the sharp-tongued Nanesse (Agnes).

Today a few Belgian puppet theaters still survive and their popularity has increased in recent years after a decline following World War II, when bombing raids severely damaged many theaters and destroyed many marionettes.