La Quincaillerie

In the Ixelles district, where fine restaurants are as common as streetlights, this spot stands out, even though it may be a little too aware of its own modish good looks and a shade pricey. The setting is a traditional former hardware store from 1903, with a giant rail-station clock, wood paneling, and masses of drawers, designed by students of Art Nouveau master Victor Horta. It's busy enough to get the waitstaff harassed and absent minded, yet they're always friendly. Seafood dishes dominate the menu. Specialties include escalope du saumon rôti au gros sel (salmon in roasted rock salt) and canette laquée au miel et citron vert (baby duck with a crust of honey and lime). You don't need to look much farther than a crisp Sancerre as the ideal wine accompaniment to most dishes.

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