Things To Do in Buenos Aires

The beauty of Buenos Aires is evident the moment you set foot on its streets. The city's most impressive historical sites surround Plaza de Mayo, although you will certainly experience Argentine history in other neighborhoods, such as La Boca and San Telmo. Be sure not to miss a waterside walk in Puerto Madero and the adjacent Ecological Reserve or an afternoon among the plazas and cafes of Recoleta or Palermo. Sidewalk cafes offer respite for weary feet, and there's good public transportation to carry you from neighborhood to neighborhood.

One thing to remember when exploring Buenos Aires's attractions is their historical legacy. Under the Spanish Empire, Buenos Aires was an unimportant backwater, with other Argentine cities, such as Córdoba, regarded as more significant and culturally sophisticated. With the 1880 movement of the capital to Buenos Aires, however, the city sought to overcome its inferiority complex with grand architectural plans, and indeed, for almost the entire first half of the 20th century, this was one of the wealthiest cities in the world. Within the descriptions of these buildings, I include, wherever possible, the history behind their impressive beauty. They are not mere baubles; they are the physical remnants of a lost opportunity for glory on the world stage.

The Changing of the Guard

Watching the changing of the guard at various historical sites throughout Buenos Aires is part of the fun of visiting. Many tourists take particular delight in photographing these men in early-19th-century military clothing parading through Plaza de Mayo. But did you know there is more than one kind of guard? Granaderos guard national monuments such as the San Martín Mausoleum and the Casa Rosada. Patricios guard city-owned buildings, such as the Municipal Palace and the Cabildo. Both dress in costumes dating from the Napoleonic era. The Patricios represent the oldest branch of the military and were formed before the country's independence, in response to British attacks on Buenos Aires. The Granaderos were formed after independence. You can also tell the difference between the guards by the pants they wear: white for Patricios, and blue for Granaderos. The Islas Malvinas-Falkland Islands War Memorial in Plaza San Martín is guarded by the three branches of the military, the navy, air force, and the army. Each branch rotates, holding the honor for a 2-week cycle.

Especially for kids

Argentines pamper their children in every way possible, and you'll see this in the multitude of kid-friendly activities in Buenos Aires. A handful of restaurants, such as Garbis, have indoor playgrounds, and several museums have been created just for kids. If you're traveling with children, don't miss the following attractions:

• Museo de Los Niños
• Museo Participativo de Ciencias
• Zoological Gardens
• The Water Palace & The Museo del Patrimonio
• Museo de las Armas de la Nación

In addition, kids will delight in the numerous outdoor playgrounds scattered across the city. One of them, where you'll often see parents and their kids even after midnight, is in Plaza San Martín. There are swing sets and a merry-go-round in Plaza Congreso, across from the headquarters of the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. You'll also find playgrounds in the Botanical Gardens.

Throughout South America, Buenos Aires is famous for its shopping. You'll find it in glitzy malls, along major shopping thoroughfares, and in small boutiques and little out-of-the-way stores. Buenos Aires is most famous for its high-quality leather goods, which, since Argentina is a beef-loving country, should come as no surprise. You won't find as many native crafts here, however, as you will in other South American capitals.

Argentina's peso crisis spawned an interesting trend: With Argentina's inability to import designer fashion items, demand for locally made items increased, and creative-minded local boutiques were able to expand and flourish. In particular, you'll find a wealth of young designers catering to the young-women's market, offering unique, feminine, and funky fashions. While not the bargain they once were, most items are still reasonably priced compared to their European and North American counterparts. Antique shops, especially in San Telmo, are also a famous part of the Buenos Aires shopping scene.

Many Buenos Aires stores, particularly those catering to tourists, also allow for tax-free shopping. You'll know them by the blue-and-white logo on the door; ask if you don't see one. Leather-goods stores are exceptionally well versed in the process, and it is part of the sales spiel. You can save even more money by looking for the Groupon offers that are posted on some of the websites of stores we list.

Look for the Mapas de Buenos Aires shopping map series (www.mapasbsas.com) as well as the GO Palermo (www.gopalermo.com.ar) shopping booklet at your hotel and tourism kiosks. DeDios has an excellent laminated shopping map, available at Buenos Aires bookstores and online at www.dediosonline.com and www.amazon.com. To help you make sense of it all, a number of tour guides specialize in shopping tours, like Argentine native Julieta Caracoche who runs Al Tuntunno Tours (tel. 11/15-4197-238 [cell]; www.altuntunno.com). Look also for fashion articles in the English-language publications Buenos Aires Herald (www.buenosairesherald.com), or The Argentina Independent (www.argentinaindependent.com).

Hours, Shipping & Taxes

Most stores are open on weekdays from 9am to 8pm and Saturday from 9am until midnight, some closing for a few hours in the afternoon. You might find some shops open on Sunday along Avenida Santa Fe, but few will be open on Calle Florida. Shopping centers are open daily from 10am to 10pm.

Certain art and antiques dealers will crate and ship bulky objects for an additional fee; others will tell you it's no problem to take that new sculpture directly on the plane. If you don't want to take any chances, contact UPS at tel. 800/222-2877 or Federal Express at tel. 810/333-3339.

Various stores participate in a tax-refund program for purchases costing more than 70 pesos. Ask for a special receipt, which can entitle you to a refund of the hefty 21% tax (IVA) when you leave the country. Most of these stores have blue-and-white TAX FREE signs, but always ask when making a purchase. The process is this: The store will provide you with a special Global Refund check form that indicates the value of what you will get back when you leave the country. You must have this special form, which participating stores will create for purchases costing more than 70 pesos, to get a refund. Some restrictions do apply, however. The item has to have been made in Argentina and purchased with the intention of taking it out of the country (so food does not qualify). The system is used mostly for clothing and leather goods, but you should ask about it whenever making a purchase, even if you do not see the sign. Upon leaving the country, have all of these checks ready and look for the Global Refund desk. At Ezeiza airport, it is located in the immigrations area just before you have your passport stamped to leave the country. For more information, check the website www.global-blue.com, and choose Argentina under the selection of countries.

While other cities sleep, darkness makes Buenos Aires come alive. One thing you'll notice immediately in this city is that nightlife is a huge part of the Porteño experience. From Avenida Corrientes theaters to tango salons to big techno clubs, Buenos Aires offers an exceptional night out.

For Porteños, the evening usually begins with a play or movie around 8pm, followed by a late and long dinner. Then, after 11pm or midnight, it'll be time to visit a bar or two, before heading to clubs around 2am. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, Porteños stay out really late, heading to big dance clubs and bars in neighborhoods like Recoleta, Palermo, and the Costanera. By the time they head home, the sun is rising. Summertime nightlife is quieter because many flee to the coast, moving their nocturnal activities to places such as Mar del Plata and Punta del Este.

But nightlife is not just about clubbing. There are numerous cultural activities for visitors and residents alike. Professional theaters (many located along Av. Corrientes, between Av. 9 de Julio and Callao and in the San Telmo and Abasto neighborhoods) show Broadway- and off-Broadway-style hits, Argentine plays, and music revues, though most are in Spanish. Buy tickets for most productions at the box office or through Ticketmaster (tel. 11/4321-9700). Tickets Buenos Aires (www.ticketsbuenosaires.com.ar) is a reduced-price ticket office at the intersections of Corrientes, Cerritos (9 de Julio), and Diagonal Norte, open Wednesday to Sunday 11am to 8pm. The British Arts Centre, Suipacha 1333 (tel. 11/4393-2004), offers entertainment in English, ranging from lectures to standup comedy to Shakespeare.

For current information on after-dark activities, consult the English-language Buenos Aires Herald (www.buenosairesherald.com), which lists events held in English and Spanish and often features events by Irish, British, Australian, and North American expats. The Argentine Independent (www.argentinaindependent.com), produced by Brit Kristie Robinson, has similar listings and intelligent cultural articles. Clarín, La Nación, Página 12 and many of the major local publications also list events, but in Spanish only. QuickGuide Buenos Aires, available in the city's tourism kiosks and in various hotels, has information on shows, theaters, and nightclubs. Ciudad Abierta (www.ciudadabiertatv.gov.ar) is a free weekly published by the city government and lists cultural events all over the city. Also check out their cable-access channel (by the same name), which highlights cultural and tourist interests around the city. Llegas a Buenos Aires (www.revistallegas.com.ar) lists cultural, arts, tango, and other events. This free newspaper is published weekly and distributed at locations across the city. Its website is an excellent planning resource for your trip. The websites www.bainsomnio.com and www.whatsupbuenosaires.com also list entertainment of all kinds in this city that never sleeps. Additionally, you can ask the Buenos Aires City Tourism offices for the "Funny Night Map," which lists bars and clubs throughout Buenos Aires (www.funnymaps.com.ar).

Dance Clubs

Dancing in Buenos Aires is not just about tango; in fact, much of the younger generation prefers salsa and European techno. The biggest nights out are Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Generally, clubs, called boliches, open around midnight, get busy around 2 or 3am, and close around 7am. The websites www.adondevamos.com and www.bsasinsomnio.com are great resources for Buenos Aires nightlife. Club entry will generally run from $10 to $15, but getting yourself on a website or Facebook guest list can reduce or eliminate this cost. Young women should take note that young Argentine men can be very aggressive in their approach techniques in bars and nightclubs. Most of the advances are harmless, however, even if they may be annoying. Take note that while smoking is officially banned in all indoor spaces in Buenos Aires, most venues take a laissez-faire attitude toward folks lighting up.

The Bar Scene

There is no shortage of popular bars in Buenos Aires, and Porteños need little excuse to party. While dancing isn't the main draw at most bars the way it is at clubs, some do have DJs or live performers. You'll really be in luck if you catch a bachelor or bachelorette party out on the town; they'll be happy to have you come along to help embarrass the soon-to-be wedded. Most smoking now takes place outside, though you'll still find plenty of people breaking the ban indoors.

Palermo Nightlife -- Hip, lively bars and innovative restaurants cluster around Plaza Serrano in Palermo Soho and spread throughout the neighboring districts of Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Viejo, so come for dinner and stay for drinks.

Come for Dinner, Stay for Drinks -- The Palermo restaurants Olsen and Sullivan's are open late and each have a full bar, so you can stick around after dinner or stop by just for drinks. The restaurant and bookstore Clásica y Moderna, in Barrio Norte, often has evening literary readings, plays, and dance shows.

Historical Bars & Bares Notables

Buenos Aires is blessed with a large collection of historical bars, cafes, pubs, and restaurants. Most of these are concentrated in San Telmo, Monserrat, the Microcentro, and other older areas of the city. I highly recommend checking them out all over the city. I've listed just a few highlights. You should ask for the Bares y Cafés Notables map from the Buenos Aires tourism kiosks to see a longer list of these remarkable spaces, which I hope will continue to be preserved.

Film

Buenos Aires has over 250 movie theaters showing Argentine and international films. There are cinemas at two shopping malls: Alto Palermo, Av. Santa Fe 3251, at Agüero (tel. 11/4827-8000), and Galerías Pacífico, at Calle Florida 753 and Córdoba (tel. 11/4319-5357). Other convenient Microcentro locations include the six-screen Atlas Lavalle, Lavalle 869, at Esmeralda (tel. 11/5032-8527; www.atlascines.com.ar), and the four-screen Monumental Lavalle, Lavalle 739, at Maipú (tel. 11/4322-1515). Most films are American and shown in English with Spanish subtitles; however, some are Argentine films, which are not subtitled. The average movie ticket price is 20 pesos. Check the Buenos Aires Herald for film listings. Every April, Buenos Aires hosts an international film festival (http://www.bafici.gov.ar). The MALBA also has a film program.

Casinos, Arcades & Bingo Halls

Calle Lavalle, with its bright lights and big-city tackiness, is the perfect place for adults and teenagers alike to test their luck. This can often be done together with a movie viewing, since many of the city's cinemas are here as well.