Most tourist attractions in Buenos Aires are located in a relatively compact area near the old colonial heart of the city, the Plaza de Mayo, established in 1580. From there, the city spreads out in a wobbly grid, originally based on the Spanish colonial system. Stretching east to the Río de la Plata is the Puerto Madero neighborhood, a renovated port district now full of restaurants, clubs, and many of the city's newest hotels. The Microcentro, or main business district, sits slightly to the northwest of this area, and is where many hotels and other tourist-related services, such as travel agencies, are located. Directly to the south of Plaza de Mayo is Monserrat, full of government buildings and historical churches. Farther south is the charming San Telmo neighborhood, one of Buenos Aires's oldest districts. This must-see neighborhood's most important attractions are its numerous antiques stores, decades-old restaurants, and local bars and tango halls. Just beyond this is La Boca, the city's historical Little Italy, which includes El Caminito, a historical pedestrian zone aimed at tourists. North of the center of the city is the beautiful area of Recoleta, home to Evita's final resting place as well as most of the city's highest priced upscale hotels. The neighboring area of Palermo is where many of the most important museums, parks, and other sites are located. Most of Recoleta and Palermo is best accessed by taxi, as there are no nearby subway stations. One rule to keep in mind wherever you go is that since the avenidas and calles (streets) are miles and miles long, always ask for a cross street with every address, which I provide in most cases throughout the listings in this guide.
