Nightlife

When other cities choose to go to sleep, darkness makes Buenos Aires come alive. One thing you'll notice immediately in this city is that people love the nightlife. From the Teatro Colón to dimly lit tango salons to the big techno clubs, Buenos Aires offers an exceptional variety of nightlife.

The evening usually begins for Porteños with a play or movie around 8pm followed by a late and long dinner. Then, after 11pm or midnight, it'll be time to visit a bar or two. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, it's time to really stay out late, with Porteños hitting big dance clubs and bars in such places as Recoleta, Palermo, and Costanera. They stay out so late that by the time they start walking home, the sun is coming up. The nightlife in summertime is quieter because most of the town flees to the coast, moving their nocturnal activities to places such as Mar del Plata and Punta del Este.

But Buenos Aires's nightlife is not just about clubbing. There are also a large number of cultural activities for the visitor and resident alike. The Teatro Colón is home to the National Opera, National Symphony, and National Ballet. In addition, there are nearly 40 professional theaters around town (many located along Av. Corrientes between Av. 9 de Julio and Callao and in the San Telmo and Abasto neighborhoods) showing Broadway- and off-Broadway-style hits, Argentine plays, and music revues, although most are in Spanish. Buy tickets for most productions at the box office or through Ticketmaster (tel. 11/4321-9700). The British Arts Centre, Suipacha 1333 (tel. 11/4393-0275), offers productions and movies in English.

For current information on after-dark entertainment, consult the English-language Buenos Aires Herald, which lists events that are held in English and Spanish, and often features events held by Irish, British, and North American expats who have moved to Buenos Aires (www.buenosairesherald.com). Clarín, La Nación, and many of the major local publications also list events, but only in Spanish. QuickGuide Buenos Aires, available in the city's tourism kiosks and in various hotels, also has information on shows, theaters, and nightclubs. Ciudad Abierta (www.buenosaires.gov.ar) is a free weekly published by the city government that lists cultural events all over the city, but it is in Spanish only. Ciudad Abierta is also an interesting cable-access channel, which, like the weekly, highlights cultural and tourist interests around the city; it's usually channel 73 on hotel cable systems. Llegas a Buenos Aires lists cultural, arts, tango, and other events. This newspaper is published weekly and distributed free at locations across the city. Visit their website (www.llegasabuenosaires.com) to plan ahead for your trip. The website www.bsasinsomnio.com.ar also lists entertainment of all kinds in this city that never sleeps. Additionally, you can ask the Buenos Aires City Tourism offices for the "Funny Night Map," which lists bars and clubs throughout Buenos Aires.

Dance Clubs

Dancing in Buenos Aires is not just about tango; in fact, the majority of the younger population prefers salsa and European techno. Of course, nothing in life changes quite so fast as the "in" discos, so ask around for the latest hot spots. The biggest nights out in Buenos Aires are Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. Young women should take note that young Argentine men can be very aggressive in their approach techniques in bars and nightclubs. Most of the advances are harmless, however, even if they may be annoying. Be aware that in 2004, a horrible nightclub fire killed about 200 people. As a result, all clubs in Buenos Aires had been shut down for fire inspections and new safety equipment and procedures. Virtually all clubs reopened during 2005, with only a few still addressing fire inspection issues. However, just to make sure, you should check before stepping out that wherever you want to go is indeed still open.

The Bar Scene

There is no shortage of popular bars in Buenos Aires, and Porteños need little excuse to party. The following are only a few of the many bars and pubs worthy of recommendation. Strolling along, you're sure to find plenty on your own. You're really in luck when you catch a bachelor or bachelorette party out on the town; they will be happy to have you come along as friends who embarrass the soon-to-be wedded.

Bars & Restaurants With Entertainment

You will find that many bars in Buenos Aires offer shows, from flamenco to readings to tango and folkloric dance shows. Here are just a few I recommend, though you will most likely come across numerous other ones in your nocturnal wanders throughout Buenos Aires.

Historical Bars & Bares Notables

Buenos Aires is blessed with a large collection of historical bars, cafes, pubs, and restaurants. Most of these are concentrated in San Telmo, Monserrat, the Microcentro, and other, older, areas of the city. I highly recommend checking them out all over the city, and I have listed some of them in various sections of this guide. Below are just a few highlights. You should ask for the Bares y Cafés Notables map from the Buenos Aires tourism kiosks to see more of these remarkable spaces, which I hope will always be preserved.

Film

Buenos Aires has over 250 movie theaters showing Argentine and international films. One of the best is the 16-screen Village Recoleta, V. López and Junín (tel. 11/4805-2220). There are also cinemas at two shopping malls: Alto Palermo, Av. Santa Fe 3251, at Agüero (tel. 11/4827-8000), and Galerías Pacífico, at Calle Florida 753 and Córdoba (tel. 11/4319-5357). Other convenient Microcentro locations include the six-screen Atlas Lavalle, Lavalle 869, at Esmeralda (tel. 11/5032-8527; www.atlascines.com.ar), and the four-screen Monumental Lavalle, Lavalle 739, at Maipú (tel. 11/4322-1515). Most films are American and shown in English with Spanish subtitles; however, some are Argentine films, which are not subtitled. Check the Buenos Aires Herald for current film listings. Every April, Buenos Aires hosts an international independent film festival (www.bafilmfest.com), so check it out if you're in town during that time.

Casinos, Arcades & Bingo Halls

There are several places in Buenos Aires for both adults and kids to test their luck. Calle Lavalle, with its bright lights and big-city tackiness, is the perfect place for adults and teenagers to drop a coin into a slot or place a bet on the table. This can often be done together with a movie viewing, since many of the cinemas are here as well.