Shopping

Throughout South America, Buenos Aires is famous for its shopping. You'll find it in glitzy malls, along major shopping thoroughfares, and in small boutiques and little out-of-the-way stores. Buenos Aires is most famous for its high-quality leather goods, which, since Argentina is a beef-loving country, should come as no surprise. You won't find as many native crafts here, however, as you will in other South American capitals.

Since the peso crisis, Buenos Aires shopping has become an unbelievable bargain. The peso crisis also spawned an interesting trend: With Argentina's inability to import many fashion products, the crisis has allowed the creativity of local designers producing for the domestic market to flourish and expand. In particular, you'll find a wealth of young designers catering to the young-women's market, offering unique, feminine, and funky fashion found nowhere else in the world. A new trade agreement with China might damage this wonderful trend, but for now, there are plenty of unique things to buy in Buenos Aires. Antiques, especially in San Telmo, are also a famous part of Buenos Aires's shopping.

Many Buenos Aires stores, particularly those catering to tourists, also offer tax-free shopping. You'll know them by the blue and white logo on the door; ask if you don't see one. Leather-goods stores are exceptionally well versed in the process, and it is often part of the spiel when you go into one of them.

Many neighborhoods, especially Palermo Viejo, have special shopping maps. Ask for these maps at the Buenos Aires City Tourism kiosks or in individual stores all over town. The Golden Map, which most hotels have at their front desks, also lists many stores, though you'll probably find that the stores that advertise less tend to have better prices.

And perhaps as a result of complaining North American visitors who have trouble finding sizes that fit in a country where thinness reigns, stores must now by law carry clothes for the overweight.

The Shopping Scene

Buenos Aires has many shopping areas, but the following places are where you'll find most of the action.

Microcentro -- Calle Florida, the Microcentro's pedestrian walking street, is home to wall-to-wall shops from Plaza San Martín to all the way past Avenida Corrientes. As you approach Plaza San Martín from Calle Florida, you'll find a number of well-regarded shoe stores, jewelers, and shops selling leather goods. Most of the stores here are decidedly middle class, and some clearly cater to locals and carry things you'd never buy. However, if you're looking for such basic items as electrical converters, extension cords, and other things to help you use your electrical goods here, this is where you will find what you need. Calle Lavalle is also pedestrianized, but most of the stores here are five-and-dime types with little of interest to the tourist, unless you are staying long-term and need items for an apartment. The Galerías Pacífico mall is located at Calle Florida 750, at Avenida Córdoba (tel. 11/4319-5100), and features a magnificent dome and stunning frescoes. Over 180 shops are open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm and Sunday from noon to 9pm, with tango and folk-dancing shows held on Thursday at 8pm. Day and night, you'll find street entertainers and tango dancers working the crowds all along Calle Florida. While you'll probably only shop on Calle Florida, other streets do have stores and restaurants, and this neighborhood also has the highest concentration of small travel agencies if you need to change an itinerary or want to add side trips.

Avenida Córdoba -- Looking for off-season bargains? Then the 3000 block of Córdoba, in the area bordering Barrio Norte and Palermo, is the place to head. Best of all, off season in Argentina is usually the right season in the Northern Hemisphere, so you won't have to let your purchases sit around for a few months -- you can wear them right when you get back home.

Avenida Santa Fe -- Popular with local shoppers, Avenida Santa Fe offers a wide selection of clothing stores with down-to-earth prices typical of stores catering to the local middle class. You will also find bookstores, cafes, ice-cream shops, and cinemas here. The Alto Palermo Shopping Center, Av. Santa Fe 3253 at Güemes (tel. 11/5777-8000), is another excellent shopping center, with 155 stores open daily from 10am to 10pm.

Palermo Viejo -- Everything old is new again in Palermo Viejo, divided into Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho. Lots of young designers have opened boutiques in this area, or they combine forces on weekends around Plaza Serrano, when restaurants fold up tables and fill with clothes racks. Shopping as a rule is best for women, but there is something for everyone in this part of the city.

Recoleta -- Avenida Alvear is Argentina's response to the Champs-Elysées, and -- without taking the comparison too far -- it is indeed an elegant, Parisian-like strip of European boutiques, cafes, antiques stores, and art galleries. Start your walk at Plaza Francia, in front of the Recoleta Cemetery, and continue to either Cerrito or Avenida 9 de Julio. Along Calle Quintana, French-style mansions share company with upscale shops. Nearby Patio Bullrich, Av. del Libertador 750 (tel. 11/4814-7400), is one of the city's most famous malls. Its 69 shops are open daily from 10am to 9pm. It is considered to be upscale, but has offerings similar to other malls in the city. It has an excellent food court, however, and is a good place to stop for a snack.

San Telmo & La Boca -- These neighborhoods offer excellent antiques as well as artists' studios and arts and crafts celebrating tango. Street performers and artists are also omnipresent, especially on weekends. La Boca should be avoided at night, however.

Just the Facts: Hours, Shipping & Taxes

Most stores are open on weekdays from 9am to 8pm and Saturday from 9am until midnight, with some closing for a few hours in the afternoon. You might find some shops open on Sunday along Avenida Santa Fe, but few will be open on Calle Florida. Shopping centers are open daily from 10am to 10pm. Certain art and antiques dealers will crate and ship bulky objects for an additional fee; others will tell you it's no problem to take that new sculpture directly on the plane. If you don't want to take any chances, contact UPS at tel. 800/222-2877 or Federal Express at tel. 810/333-3339. Various stores participate in a tax-refund program for purchases costing more than 70 pesos. Ask for a special receipt, which can entitle you to a refund of the hefty 21% tax (IVA) when you leave the country. Most of these stores have blue-and-white TAX FREE signs, but always ask when making a purchase. The process works by getting a special Global Refund check form that indicates the value of what you will get back when you leave the country. You must have this special form, which participating stores will create for purchases costing more than 70 pesos, to get a refund. Some restrictions do apply, however. The item has to have been made in Argentina and purchased with the intention of taking it out of the country (things such as food do not qualify). The system is used mostly for clothing and leather goods, but you should ask about it whenever making a purchase, even if you do not see the sign. Upon leaving the country, have all of these checks ready and look for the Global Refund desk. At Ezeiza airport, it is located in the immigrations area just before you have your passport stamped to leave the country. For more information, check out the website www.globalrefund.com and choose Argentina under the selection of countries.