What's New

What's New, Buenos Aires? It's the name of one of the most famous songs about this exciting city and never more true than today. With so many tourists pouring into the Argentine capital, you'll find new services, businesses, and all kinds of things going on, whether this is your first trip or one of several.

Planning Your Trip -- You have even more choices for flying from North America to Buenos Aires. Since our last edition, Continental Airlines has begun flights from its hubs in Newark, New Jersey within the New York Metropolitan region and from their headquarters in Houston, Texas. Contact them at tel. 800/525-0280 or www.continental.com. Aerolíneas Argentinas has also restored its JFK flights to Buenos Aires, supplementing their Miami schedule (tel. 800/333-0276 in the U.S., 0810/222-86527 in Buenos Aires, or 1800/22-22-15 in Australia; www.aerolineas.com.ar).

Accommodations -- With so many tourists heading to Buenos Aires, hotels can't seem to open fast enough. One of the most luxurious to open in the past year includes the new Park Hyatt Buenos Aires (Av. Alvear 1661; tel. 11/5171-1234). This is the hotel's second incarnation in Buenos Aires, and the garden connecting its old and new buildings is considered one of the best in the city.

Several boutique hotels have opened in Palermo Viejo, where everything old is new again. These fashionable hotels are where the young jet-setters are staying in this oh-so-trendy part of the city. Home in Palermo Viejo (Honduras 5860; tel. 11/4778-1008) creates a fashionable and warm home away from home. This is also where the Bush twins stayed during their infamous time in the Argentine capital. Nearby, Soho All Suites is sleek and stylish and the site of fashionable local parties (Honduras 4762; tel. 11/4832-3000). In Barrio Norte, close to Recoleta, the Art Hotel (Azcuenaga 1268; tel. 11/4821-4744) offers a charming atmosphere in a renovated former hostel, which retains much of the building's original architecture.

After receiving requests from readers, new for this edition in the Where to Stay section are lists of apartment services. Not everyone wants a hotel, and whether it's long- or short-term, apartments give you a feel for how the locals live. Prices and locations will vary, but this is a fun option when in Buenos Aires, and it's great for large groups of friends.

Dining -- Once again, Palermo Viejo takes center stage. This hip neighborhood contains the city's most exciting dining. We've expanded this section of the book from the last edition. Look for the upscale, but warm and friendly, La Baita (tel. 11/4832-7234; www.labaita-restaurante.com.ar), with its two busy levels. Meridiano 58 (tel. 11/4833-3443) offers casual Argentine fusion with a zen atmosphere of moody candles and waterfalls. El Diamante (tel. 11/4831-5735) is the latest from star chef Fernando Trocca, and it has opened since our last edition. It's a definite do-not-miss with its interesting blending of pan-Latin cuisine.

Within San Telmo, check out the French brasserie Petanque (tel. 11/4342-7930; www.brasseriepetanque.com). You'll feel transported to the South of France.

Sightseeing -- What is old is getting a facelift in plastic surgery-crazed Buenos Aires. Most historic buildings in Buenos Aires were created around 1910, the centennial year of Argentina's independence from Spain. With the bicentennial coming up in 2010, the city is busy renovating like crazy. Depending on the timing of your visit, you'll see a completely new Casa Rosada, Plaza de Mayo, Teatro Colón, Tribunales and even new paving and restored shop fronts up and down Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenida de Mayo. This may mean lots of inconvenience on your trip as you walk around scaffolding, but the work will be worth it when the city shines anew, flush with the money brought by tourism. Plans are also underway for the construction of a new tourist train connecting Puerto Madero to La Boca, meaning improved waterfront access for tourists and locals alike. Greater Buenos Aires's newest tourist site is the new Juan Perón Mausoleum (tel. 22/2548-2260; www.ic.gba.gov.ar/patrimonio/museos/17oct/index.html) in San Vicente, about an hour from the city center. It opened in a chaotic parade on October 17, 2006.

Shopping -- When the famous British import Harrod's closed years ago, Buenos Aires was left without a department store. Now another imported department store, Falabella, from Chile, has opened its doors in Argentina. Look for their two branches on Calle Florida, the city's main shopping street (tel. 11/5950-5000; www.falabella.com). Palermo Viejo is becoming a victim of its own success, and this fashionable neighborhood is now being victimized by chain stores. However, you'll still find creative and unique leather goods at Pasión Argentina (tel. 11/4773-1157 and 11/4777-7550; www.pasion-argentina.com.ar). Their leather fashions incorporate native textiles made by the Wichi tribe from the Chaco region in Western Argentina. The most stunningly situated store in all of Buenos Aires is the new Tango Moda, opened in 2006 atop the Palacio Barolo on Avenida de Mayo. Shop and watch the sunset on the 16th floor of this iconic building, once South America's tallest (tel. 11/4381-4049; www.tangomoda.com).

After Dark -- Combine the peso crisis with an influx in tourists and you have a tango revival. Until just a few years ago, it was thought that this native dance might die out. Now it's obvious that won't happen any time soon. New tango shows opening since my last edition include the very creative Complejo Tango, which includes a fun tango lesson before the show (tel. 11/4941-1119 or 11/4308-3242; www.complejotango.com.ar). Bocatango brings you to the neighborhood closely associated with tango's early days, La Boca, Buenos Aires's original Little Italy, using a stage set recalling its immigrant heyday (tel. 11/4302-0808; www.bocatango.com.ar). Once in Buenos Aires, you'll learn also the difference between a tango show, aimed at tourists, and a milonga, where locals actually do the provocative dance on their own. One of the newest and best milongas is Bien Pulenta. It's run by a beautiful blonde from Iceland whom tango aficionados all over Buenos Aires simply call "La Vikinga," though her real name is Helen. You'll call this Saturday-only event magical (tel. 11/4383-6229 and 15/5865-8279).