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Best Dining Bets
Best Parrilla: You probably heard of this place long before coming to Buenos Aires, and Cabaña Las Lilas, Alicia Moreau de Justo 516 (tel. 11/4313-1336), deserves every bit of its reputation. It's expensive for sure, running about US$40 (£21.20) for a complete meal, but it's worth it: The cuts of beef are so soft, they almost melt in your mouth. In spite of the price, it's casual too, so come in sneakers and shorts if you want.
Best Cafe Experiences: Café Tortoni, Av. de Mayo 825 (tel. 11/4342-4328), might not have the best service in town, but the incredible history and beauty of this cafe more than make up for it. This was and still remains Argentina's intellectual coffee spot of choice; and even the culture-seeking tourists don't overwhelm the space. Sit outside at La Biela, Av. Quintana 596 (tel. 11/4804-0449), in glamorous Recoleta, overlooking the world-famous Recoleta Cemetery. From the view to Iglesia Pilar to the wonderful shade of the gum trees on its sidewalk, this is Buenos Aires at its best.
Best Authentic Old Buenos Aires Dining: Buenos Aires is full of trendy places, but the surefire bets are where Porteños have eaten for decades. Ham hangs from the rafters and steaks are as thick as the crowds at the Spanish eatery Plaza Asturias, Av. de Mayo 1199 (tel. 11/4382-7334). The staff is so busy that you might get hurt while trying to find the restroom, with all the running around they do. For more than 40 years, fish lovers have flocked to Dora, Leandro N. Alem 1016 (tel. 11/4311-2891), an unpretentious but high-quality and high-priced spot on Paseo Colón that's worth every penny.
Best Seafood: Argentina has a long coastline, but it has always been the turf, not the surf, that gave its chefs culinary inspiration. There are two places that defy this trend, including, as above, Dora, Leandro N. Alem 1016 (tel. 11/4311-2891), the unpretentious seafood spot businesspeople and those in the know have eaten at for 40 years. The other, Olsen, in Palermo Viejo, at Gorriti 5870 (tel. 11/4776-7677), serves up an interesting twist on seafood -- Scandinavian-style, with flavors that are very different from anything on the menu elsewhere in Buenos Aires.
Best Cigar Bar: Argentine culture might not be as macho as it's reputed to be, what with female presidential candidates and powerful first ladies. But that ultimate symbol of masculine domination, the cigar, persists at the Oak Bar, at the Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, Av. Alvear 1661 (tel. 11/5171-1234). The room is part of the original Palacio Duhau mansion, and the panels came from an old French castle. With the new ban on smoking in Buenos Aires, this is one of the only places that exists for executives who want to make a smoking deal.
Best Italian Restaurant: With over half of Buenos Aires from Italian immigrant stock, it's hard to go wrong finding good Italian food in this city: Most parrillas offer an excellent array of pasta, usually homemade on the premises. The best formal Italian dining experience in the city, however, is Piegari, Posadas 1042 (tel. 11/4328-4104), in the Recoleta la Recova area, near the Four Seasons hotel. Their selection of food concentrated on northern Italian cuisine is superb, and they have a stunning array of risottos in particular.
Best French Restaurant: La Bourgogne, Av. Alvear 1891 (tel. 11/4805-3857), in the Alvear Palace, is hands down the best French restaurant in Buenos Aires, and it has been the recipient of numerous awards. Yes, it's very formal and very expensive, but what else would you expect from such a place?
Best Restaurant for Kids: Garbis, Scalabrini Ortiz, at Cerviño (tel. 11/4511-6600), is an Armenian restaurant chain, with what one British expat friend of mine loves to call a "jumpee castle" where she can bring her kids. The best one is in Palermo Soho, and adults can eat in peace while the kids entertain themselves on the indoor playground.
Best Value Restaurants: Little-known family-run Juana M, Carlos Pellegrini 1535 (tel. 11/4326-0462), a small parrilla on the very end of Avenida 9 de Julio, in the Recoleta district, wins this distinction for sure. There are great meat cuts and an unlimited salad bar, and most meals with drinks hit under the US$5 (£2.65) mark. If you're in Puerto Madero, head straight to La Bisteca, Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1890 (tel. 11/4514-4999), a chain restaurant with an all-you-can-eat menu offering high-quality cuts of meat along with a generous salad bar. It's a huge space, but the seating arrangements create a sense of intimacy, and at these prices, it can't be beat.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without
notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before
planning your trip.
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